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Heuritech:2023从性别差距中解放:性别流动时尚研究报告(英文版)(63页).pdf

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Heuritech:2023从性别差距中解放:性别流动时尚研究报告(英文版)(63页).pdf

1、Freedom from Distinctions:Gender Fluid FashionAnna Shvets INDEX123 4 Defining Gender FluidityVs.Genderless and UnisexA History of Gender Fluidity in FashionState of Play:Gender Fluidity TodayKey TrendsKey trends in the realm of gender fluid fashion Media Representation Influential Figures&Brands Key

2、 PersonaeAlong with key figures and turning points in historySS DaleyDefiningGender Fluidity1Stella McCartneyGender-Fluid FashionToday,gender fluidity is gaining strength and importance like never before,being heavily influenced by younger Gen Z consumersa generation known for refusing to be fenced

3、in by any boundaries.A gender-fluid collection is not designed nor marketed toward any specific gender and refrains from splitting any item,colour,print,pattern,fabric etc.,into gender binaries.Simply said:blue is no longer reserved for boys,and pink is not only for girls;anyone can wear any item an

4、d style it as they please with no distinctions based by binary norms.Once a transgression,now is a symbol for inclusion.Gender fluidity expressed through fashion has always been a dangerous act,pioneered by those who live in defiance of gender conventions to pave the way for a new freedom of express

5、ion.Defining Gender-FluidityMAISON MARGIELAGender FluidityThroughout History2A History of Gender Fluidity in FashionThe TransgressionLooking back to fashion history,cross-dressing between gender binaries is nothing new.In medieval and Renaissance Europe,the noblemens go-to attire included extravagan

6、t lace collars,skirts,gold-embroidered capes,and flowing curls.Regardless,when gender roles became more defined,this playful attitude towards fashion eventually led men to trouble.Jean Cazotte,a notorious French author,often spotted wearing garments such as pink silk frock coats with Flemish lace ja

7、bot,was sent to the guillotine by French Revolutionaries in 1792.Bright Young Things4.2.3.5.1.“The Bright Young Things”of the 1920s and 30s were a group of socialites known for their eccentric love for dressing up.These young mens outfits,which ranged from over-the-top outlandish fashion to gender-b

8、lurring fancy dress,caused a scandalous response from society.Even after their influential style,they remained as a transgressive youth sub-culture in a time when menswear turned rigid,sober,and narrowed,almost to a uniform.A History of Gender Fluidity in FashionThe Peacock RevolutionIn the 1950s,me

9、ns fashion consisted primarily of the sober uniformity of the baggy business suit.Gender norms stated that men were supposed to be the breadwinners,with no time for self-expression.However,by the mid-1960s,influenced by the social movements which rejected established conventions,a whole generation o

10、f men started challenging the rigid,binary staid rules of masculine etiquette.Suddenly stepping outside wearing traditionally feminine fabrics like chiffon and silk,effeminate silhouettes and flamboyant prints didnt seem so scandalising.In fact,it was highly accelerated and celebrated by the hottest

11、 stars of the era,such as The Beatles,Mick Jagger,Jimi Hendrix and David Bowie.InfluentialFigures4.2.3.5.1.1.DAVID BOWIE2.JIMI HENDRIX3.MICK JAGGER4.DAVID BOWIE5.JOHN LENNONThese very masculine men courageously chose the softer feel of velvet,the vivid motifs of silk kimonos with feathers,and the fr

12、eedom of a chiffon dress previously judged to be too feminine for a man.By embracing this effeminacy and questioning the basis of the idea of subjective identity,they broadened the scope of the definitions of“masculinity.A History of Gender Fluidity in FashionThe Flamboyant Mr FishReferenced as the

13、sartorial partner in crime of David Bowie,if the unapologetic dandy revolution had one headman,it could be Mr Fish.The designer opened his Mayfair boutique in 1966 and soon became the creative hub for the seismic shift in mens wear.Filled with floppy neckties,brocade waist-coats,flounced tunics,velv

14、et jackets,foppishly high button collars,and puffed sleeves,his offerings were a stark contrast to the overwhelming conformity rules that applied to his sex.The Newly Dandified Man4.2.3.5.1.Mr Fishs most usual clientle were icons of the Peacock Revolution:David Bowie and Mick Jagger.Possibly the pre

15、decessor of what is presented as menswear on the runway of Gucci,Roberto Cavalli and Palomo Spain today,he unlocked the ground for the newly dandified man.1.DAVID BOWIE2.UNKNOWN3.UNKNOWN4.MICK JAGGER5.UNKNOWNA History of Gender Fluidity in FashionThe TomboysThroughout decades women have used fashion

16、 as a feminist tool.The shift truly began as far back as the 1930s,when women could be arrested for wearing pants,still Rachilde,and only ten other selected feminists,courageously did so in the streets of Paris.Followed by writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach a true pioneer in gender issues,who chose fash

17、ion to promote her political views.However,until the 1960s,women truly began to embrace fashion with less of a decorative approach but with an emphasis on form and function to embody the new position of women in society;consequently,wearing pants was no longer considered a rebellious political state

18、ment but one of liberation and empowerment.InfluentialFigures4.2.3.5.1.1.LE TUXEDO YVES SAINT LAURENT2.GRETA GARBO3.KATHERINE HEPBURN4.MARLENE DIETRICH5.GRACE JONESIn 1966,Yves Saint Laurent introduced le smoking,a tuxedo for women.It offered a thrilling alternative to the ultra-feminine Little Blac

19、k Dress,which ruled the streets before.After this,not just trousers but pea coats,dress shirts,fedoras,buttoned vests,and blazers with sculptural shoulders became female wardrobe staples.Katherine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich were the first actresses to wear pants in a major motion picture.Other key

20、 figures such as Greta Garbo,Grace Jones,Annie Hall,Pierre Cardin and Andre Courreges also rejected the conventions of femininity,paving the way for the integration of mens clothes into womens fashion.A History of Gender Fluidity in FashionThe Teddy GirlsThe female counterpart of the Teddy Boys,the

21、sharply-suited Teddy Girls,was the first British female youth subculture,which originated from then working-class areas in East or West London.When the war ended,women happily turned their backs to the masculine silhouettes they were forced to adopt while enduring the war.However,on the contrary,The

22、 Teddy Girls collectively rejected post-war austerity and continued with their appropriation of masculine styles.Dandy Women4.2.3.5.1.The Teddy style is a revival of dandy Edwardian fashion,recognized by the rolled-up jeans,flat shoes,drape jackets,tailored jackets with velvet collars,and the charac

23、teristically slicked back quiff hairstyle.Still,the girls added their feminine spin to the mix by incorporating straw boater hats,statement brooches,espadrilles and elegant clutch bags.1.KEN RUSSEL 2.KEN RUSSEL 3.KEN RUSSEL 4.KEN RUSSEL 5.KEN RUSSEL A History of Gender Fluidity in FashionThe New Wav

24、eIn contrast with the first stances of the tomboy style,the 90s version of it didnt reject the more girly aspects of womenswear altogether;in fact,it blended both,resulting in a new tomboy chic by balancing femininity with edgier tones and stealing from the boys department.In an era of ultra-feminin

25、e singers wearing skin-tight mini-skirts with glittery platforms,music Icons like Missy Elliot and Aaliyah broke the mould for urban female artists in a refreshing way,which style and street sensibility are still emulated by artists today.Tomboy Chic4.2.3.5.1.By pairing midriff-flossing bras with ba

26、ggy,relaxed cargo pants and a bandanna,they started the new wave of tomboyish fashion;they defined the style of the 90s,a legacy still present in many trends popular today.Sporting dungarees,crop top,baggy,low-rise jeans,Timberland boots,oversized tees,bandannas and matching tracksuits,but always st

27、yling them with big golden hoops,heavy jewellery and glittery lipgloss.1.AALIYAH 2.AALIYAH 3.AALIYAH 4.MISSY ELLIOT5.MISSY ELLIOT State of Play:Gender Fluidity Today3VogueState of Play:Media RepresentationMedia RepresentationIn 2022,gender fluid representation in fashion media is ubiquitous.However,

28、it is important to emphaisze that gender fluidity is not just a trend-it is a reality for many people,and gender non-conforming people have always existed throughout history,it is simply their degree of representation that has varied.The unprecedented visibility of gender non-conforming people in co

29、ntemporary media is due,in part,to Gen Z.In fact,according to Rob Smith,the founder of Phluid project,in 2019,56%of Gen Z people were“already shopping outside their assigned gender area.”Additionally,a survey conducted by Vice discovered that 41%of Gen Z respondents identified as neutral on the gend

30、er spectrum,with over half identifying as something other than heterosexual.Media RepresentationDepicting Gender Fluidity4.2.3.5.1.1.JACQUEMUS2.CALVIN KLEIN3.VOGUE4.VOGUE5.HARRIS REIDThe Phluid ProjectThemAntidote Magazine“Gender-free fashion,community,activism and education”-a multi-brand retailer

31、featuring queer,trans,black,latinx,and women-owned brands as well as engaging in community activism and sharing educational resourcesThem is“a platform for all of the bold,stylish,and rebellious ways that LGBTQ+people are reshaping our world every day.”speaking on current events,style,and community

32、through a queer lens Magazine Antidote is a Parisian biannually-published magazine that focuses on spotlighting diverse voices.Antidote is vocal in social justice issues,and boldly supports the LGBTQ community.MEDIA REPRESENTATION:GENDER FLUID PLATFORMSMEDIA REPRESENTATION:FASHION CAMPAIGNSZaraCalvi

33、n KleinH&MMEDIA REPRESENTATION:FASHION CAMPAIGNSThom BrowneAcne StudiosPalomo SpainState of Play:Influential FiguresInfluential FiguresThe most influential figures paving the way for more freedom of expression in fashion come from different walks of life and generations,demonstrating that gender flu

34、idity is not merely a fad amongst young people,but it reaches all echelons of society.The power of social media enables activists and public figures who advocate for gender fluid fashion to amplify their voices,which has bolstered the visibility and diffusion of the gender fluid movement.Although ge

35、nder fluidity may not seem groundbreaking for many of us in 2022,public figures play an essential role in normalizing the breakdown gender barriers through fashion.The visibility of gender fluidity in fashion through public figures is important as it demonstrates that fashion has no inherent gender

36、and that people should have the power to dress how they please regardless of their identity.Influential FiguresFaces of Gender Fluidity4.2.3.5.1.1.MARK BRYAN2.BOBBI MENUEZ3.YANIS4.KING PRINCESS5.BIMINI BON BOULASHRas BartramMark BryanKing PrincessRecently appointed Fashion Director of 032c;“I identi

37、fy as a man,”he says,but“I have no boundaries within gender.I dont hold back on anything;I wear full faces of makeup really often,because I love that,and I dont think about it.”Per his instagram bio,Mark Bryan is a“straight,cis male who loves wearing high heels and skirts daily.”Bryan has been recen

38、tly featured in countless fashion editorials and magazine spreads from the likes of Harpers Bazaar and Remix MagazineMusician King Princess chose her stage name as“it encompasses the complexity of her gender,”playing with both masculine and feminine aspects of her identity.King Princess has become a

39、n influential figure known for encouraging her fans to embrace the dualities of their gender expressionMEDIA REPRESENTATION:INFLUENTIAL FIGURESState of Play:Key BrandsKey BrandsMore and more brands are doing away with traditionally gendered collections in favour of unisex or gender fluid offerings t

40、o reflect the fact that a large portion of consumers are already shopping outside of their assigned gender.Brands like Tanner Flether are opting for unisex collections that can easily fit any body type,while others simply adapt their merchandising strategy to show mens pieces in the womens section a

41、nd vice versa.Luxury,mainstream,and niche brands are all tapping into the gender fluidity movement.Some notable examples include Gucci,Molly Goddard,and JW Anderson,all of which are leading the way for a more fluid future.Key Brands4.2.3.5.1.1.APOTTS2.STEFAN COOKE3.JW ANDERSON4.THOM BROWNE5.MOLLY GO

42、DDARDPaving the way Harris ReedThom BrowneTanner FletcherHarris Reed is a non-binary designer who states“I fight for the beauty of fluidity.I fight for a more opulent and accepting world.”He also famously dressed Harry Styles for his Vogue cover shoot in 2020.Thom Browne twists classic american styl

43、e and mens tailoring with an irreverent attitude,being one of the vanguards of gender fluid fashion.Browne often shows garments on both men and women to subvert the codes of traditional tailoring.Tanner Flettcher is a unisex luxury brand that pushes the boundaries between masculinity and femininity.

44、The brand creates homeware and ready-to-wear through a nostalgic yet romantic lens.MEDIA REPRESENTATION:KEY BRANDSAPottsCharles Jeffrey LoverboyLudovic de Saint SerninAaron Potts creates“all gender design”that subverts both gender and racial norms.The brand is unisex and shows all pieces on men and

45、women in their lookbooks,because“real style is about spirit,not about physical differences or trends”per the designer.CSM alum Charles Jeffreys eponymous label has won the designer a BFA and LVMH prize nomination.The brand is inspired by the designers experience of growing up queer in Scotland,resul

46、ting in irreverent and energetic collections that subvert traditional codes of dressing.According to the brands website,many pieces are designed“without one gender in mind.”LdSS gained notoriety for proposing a soft and sensual vision of masculinity that was absent from the market.His offer has sinc

47、e grown to include more womenswear,in line with the brands sultry DNA.MEDIA REPRESENTATION:KEY BRANDSState of Play:Key PersonaeKey PersonaeThe three persona outlined include the Softboy,the Tomboy,and the Non-Conformist.The Softboy describes a man who embraces his feminine side by incorporating trad

48、itionally“feminine”elements into his wardrobe.The Tomboy describes a woman who dresses in more masculine clothing that tends to be oversized.She also incorporates elements of the gorpcore aesthetic into her wardrobe.Lastly,the Non-Conformist persona describes a gender non-specific person who tends t

49、o dress in bright colors and embraces a DIY aesthetic.The Non-Conformist archetype is a truly gender fluid persona as it incorporates codes from both feminine and masculine vestiaires.Key Persona:The Softboy4.2.3.5.1.1.TIME MAGAZINE2.CASABLANCA3.VOGUE4.DAVI PARIS5.ARTURO OBEGEROKey Persona:The Softb

50、oyTimothee ChalametThe Softboy:Embraces both his masculine and feminine sides,and alternates freely between the two depending on his mood Is Gen Z to early millennial Is aware of trends but does not hesitate to deviate from them Wears brands like Molly Goddard,Casablanca,and JW AndersonThe Softboy r

51、epresents a type of new masculinity that embraces a delicate,feminine sensibility.Timothee Chalamet is one of the archetypal figures of this aesthetic-he is the boy next door who is not afraid to embrace his softer side.The Softboy aesthetic combines elements of prep,late 2000s twee aesthetics,and e

52、lements from queer culture.He plays with both the masculine and feminine aspects of his identity-one day,he will be wearing a full streetwear look while on the red carpet he can wear a lace embellished suit.Fluidity between masculinity and femininity is a key aspect of the Softboy aesthetic.Harry St

53、yles and Cole Sprouse are other examples of the Softboy.Starter packColorsPrintsFabricsAccessoriesBrandsShapesHoundstoothFloralPinstripesLight BlueGreyBrownCorduroyLaceSatinThin ScarvesBeretsCummerbundsBelted OuterwearCardigansThe WaistcoatKey Persona:The Tomboy4.2.3.5.1.1.AIME LEON DORE2.OPERA SPOR

54、T3.REESE COOPER4.ADVISRY5.NOON GOONSKey Persona:The TomboyVeneda CarterThe Tomboy:Often shops from mens brands as she prefers oversized fits Has an effortlessly cool style Combines elements of gorpcore and prep,pairing items like a varsity jacket with cargo pants Does not follow micro trends but has

55、 a few key brands she likes and sticks to thatVeneda Carter is the archetypal tomboy figure.She started her career as a stylist after being contacted by Yeezy on Instagram for her effortlessly cool aesthetic.She is now a celebrity stylist for major figures like Kim Kardashian,thus her influence on f

56、ashion is difficult to overstate.Carter is known for her love of Timberlands and wearing oversized“mens”clothing inspired by 90s Hip Hop culture.The tomboy typically wears a neutral color palette,tactical materials,and a baggy fit that one would typically associate with the masculine gorpcore subcul

57、ture.Other examples of the Tomboy persona include Ida Broen and Hannah da Silva.Starter pack:The TomboyColorsPrintsFabricsAccessoriesBrandsShapesCamouflagePlaidGraphic TextArmy GreenNavy BlueBright OrangeFleeceRainproofQuiltedHiking ShoesBaseball CapsTimberlandsRugby ShirtVarsity JacketBaggy PantsKe

58、y Persona:The Non-ConformistGender Fluidity Today4.2.3.5.1.1.RICK OWENS2.BALENCIAGA3.BLUMARINE4.RAF SIMONS5.GIVENCHYKey Persona:The Non-ConformistAngel ProstThe Non-Conformist:Prefers to shops from niche,independent brands and Depop Often wears clashing colors and patterns in their looks with a DIY,

59、crafty aesthetic Participates in community activism and tends to work in an artistic field Can be a man,woman,or gender non-conforming personAngel Prost is a gender non-conforming model and musician who has appeared in countless runway shows and campaigns from brands including Miu Miu,Celine,and Col

60、lina Strada.Prost is emblematic of the non-conformist style that is defined by a playful,DIY aesthetic that often combines several bright colors and clashing patterns in one look.The non-conformist persona is truly gender fluid,as people across all gender expressions embody the aesthetic equally.The

61、 token non-conformist often participates in community activism and has an artistic side project whether it be crocheting or DJing.Other examples of the non-conformist persona include Ella Emhoff and Sasha Melnychuk.Starter pack:The Non-ConformistColorsPrintsFabricsAccessoriesBrandsShapesSwirl Prints

62、StarsColorful CheckerboardBright Pink OrangeLime GreenPatchworkVelvetCrochetThe BalaclavaColorful JewelryQuilted BagsCut OutsHead to toe PrintsPleated SkirtsKeyTrends4APOTTSVelvetVelvet is a tactile fabric that somehow became gendered as feminine throughout past decades.Designers are challenging thi

63、s categorization by using velvet for mens looks as well.The material often appears in black for menswear looks for a less ostentatious look,however brands like Etro sent a red velvet suit down the runway in their most recent collection.Our data indicates that velvet will exhibit similar behavior on

64、the market by Spring 23 for both men and women,with a shared stable behavior,big magnitude,and trendy&edgy consumer segmentation.The material is deemed a Safe Bet for both genders for a Spring 22 collection.Tactile Touch1.DRIES VAN NOTEN2.ERDEM3.ETRO4.SAINT LAURENT5.EDWARD BERTHELOT4.2.3.5.1.3.4.2.3

65、.4.5.Women+2%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation TRENDY&EDGY Safe BetMen+3%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation TRENDY&EDGY Safe Bet1.RAF SIMONS2.TYLER JOE3.PALM ANGELS4.EDWARD BERTHELOT5.COLLINA STRADAVelvet5.SatinSatin is a lustrous fabric that has become a favourite i

66、n recent seasons,often appearing in a matching short and button down shirt set reminiscent of pyjamas.Several brands are proposing unisex satin sets for leisurewear,as seen by Casablanca and Rhude.New York-based brand Private Policy also featured satin looks in their unisex FW 22 collection,shown on

67、 both genders.Satin has a lustrous quality that perhaps makes it read as more feminine to some,however it has become commonplace for men to wear the fabric thanks to a more free approach to dressing we are seeing on the market.The material is deemed a Safe Bet for a Spring 23 collection thanks to a

68、big magnitude and stable dynamics.It is interesting to see that satin is most popular amongst the edgy consumer segment in Europe.Pyjama-core1.NANUSHKA2.LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN3.ALYX4.MILAYAHANSON5.SAINT LAURENT4.2.3.5.1.3.4.2.3.4.5.Women+4%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation EDGY Saf

69、e Bet1.DANIEL W FLETCHER2.BRYCEHALL3.RHUDE4.OPERASPORT 5.PRIVATE POLICYSatin5.PinkPink is,of course,the quintessential feminine color.However,more and more men are incorporating it into their wardrobe as it is an uplifting color that has no inherent gender.Hot pink and pastel pink are the two most p

70、opular tones in the realm of menswear,either worn as a pop of color in a neutral look,or head to toe to create a stand-out look.The visibility of the color is predicted to remain flat on social media by Spring 23 compared to last year for both genders,along with a shared big magnitude indicating a h

71、igh potential market demand.Taken together,pink is considered a Safe Bet for both men and women for the Spring 23 season.Pink has evidently been well established in the market,as all three consumer segments wear pink equally across both genders.Think Pink1.ERL2.PANGAIA3.MSGM4.COMMISSION 5.EDWARD BER

72、THELOT4.2.3.5.1.3.4.2.3.4.5.Women+4%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY Safe BetMen-1%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY Safe Bet1.DOLCE&GABBANA 2.EDWARD BERTHELOT 3.VALENTINO4.GMBH 5.ACIELLE Pink5.Floral1.COMMISSION2.KADUD

73、ANTAS3.BROWNSFASHION4.ERDEM5.RHUDE4.2.3.5.1.Floral prints are becoming more popular in the mens market,whereas it has long since been a ubiquitous print for women.Head-to-toe floral looks are a popular styling trend for those who are bolder while pairing a floral top with neutral bottoms can be an i

74、deal choice for a subtle floral look.Although many men feel liberated to incorporate“feminine”elements like floral prints into their wardrobe,not all men are on board with the trend yet,which is indicated by the prints medium magnitude on the market,compared to womenswear where the magnitude of flor

75、al is big.Despite these differences in market penetration,florals are still considered a Safe Bet for a Spring 23 collection for both genders.Moreover,the print has a universal appeal in Europe,as all three consumer segments are equally fond of the fabric for both genders.For Spring?Groundbreaking3.

76、4.2.3.4.5.Women+3%In Winter 22 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY Safe BetMen+2%In Winter 22 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY Safe Bet1.ERNEST W BAKER 2.COMMISSION3.TANNER FLETCHER4.EDWARD BERTHELOT5.EDWARD BERTHELOTFloral5.1.SAINT LAURENT2.ER

77、DEM3.SOURCE UNKNOWN4.MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH5.GAUCHERE4.2.3.5.1.BlazersSuited UpThe blazer has a truly unisex appeal,being a timeless wardrobe staple for men and women equally.The blazer has become even more popular recently,as suiting was a significant fixture of FW 22 fashion weeks,representing a retu

78、rn to“traditional”style.The blazer has a massive magnitude on the European market across all genders,meaning it is a widely adopted silhouette with a high market potential.Combined with a slightly increasing and flat magnitude for women and men respectively,the blazer is deemed a Safe Bet for Spring

79、 23.Although it is a timeless garment,the blazer is most popular amongst trendy and edgy consumer segments for women,while for men it is most represented on the edgy consumer profile.It is interesting to note that for women an oversized silhouette tends to be more popular while for men the blazer is

80、 becoming more tailored and form-fitting.3.2.3.4.5.Women+6%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVESegmentation TRENDY&EDGY Safe BetMen+2%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVESegmentation EDGY Safe Bet1.CALVIN LUO 2.STREETSTYLESTARS3.SAINT LAURENT4.MILAYAHANSON 5.KHAITE Blazers5.Crop Tops1.JA

81、CQUEMUS2.LEO3.DANIEL ZUCHNIK 4.TYLER MCGILLVARY5.GMBH 4.2.3.5.1.Summer EssentialsFor womenswear,the crop top has been endlessly reinterpreted ranging form the ultra crop to a more modest version.For men,the crop top is in a far earlier stage of the trend life cycle,and it has a more limited appeal c

82、ompared to womenswear as it is quite a daring silhouette by heteronormative standards.It is refreshing to see the crop top appear more and more frequently on men as they are liberated from gendered norms of dressing-brands like Eckhaus Latta,Jacquemus,and Daniel Fletcher have included the crop top f

83、or men in their most recent collections.The market adoption of the crop top varies between genders:for women,the crop top has a massive magnitude,while for men it is medium.The crop top is slated to remain flat on the womens market,while for men it will experience a slight 5%decrease in visibility o

84、n social media by Spring 23.Nonetheless,the trend is a Safe Bet for Spring 23 for both genders.3.4.2.3.4.5.Women+1%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVESegmentation TRENDY&EDGY Safe BetMen-5%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUMSegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY Safe Bet1.GAUCHERE2.ECKHAUS

85、 LATTA3.SOURCE UNKNOWN4.GIMAGUAS5.DANIEL W.FLETCHERCrop Tops5.Wide Leg TrousersThe wide leg trouser has taken over the skinny silhouette as the most popular pant shape for both genders,making it a unisex trend.The wide leg pant is predicted to behave similarly between genders by Spring 23-the trend

86、has a shared big magnitude and a stable predicted level of visibility on social media,making it a Safe Bet for an upcoming collection.The wide leg trouser is most often worn by edgy women,while in the mens market it is most appealing to edgy and trendy consumers.Billowing Silhouettes1.THE ROW2.ACIEL

87、LE3.GMBH4.COURREGES5.16ARLINGTON4.2.3.5.1.3.4.2.3.4.5.Women+2%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation EDGY Safe BetMen+4%In Winter 22 vs.last yearMagnitude BIGSegmentation TRENDY&EDGY Safe Bet1.ECKHAUS LATTA 2.STREETSTYLESTARS 3.STREETSTYLESTARS4.ETUDES 5.KIRA Wide Leg Trousers5.Pleated S

88、kirtsWhile skirts for men is not yet a widely adopted trend,it is interesting to observe that when men are spotted in the skirt,it is often a knee length pleated silhouette.Skirts on men have been appearing in a substantial amount of runway shows lately,however the trend is not nearly as common in t

89、he streets.For women,the pleated shape has been popular lately along with the rise of preppy aesthetics.The pleated skirt is predicted to maintain a stable level of visibility on the womens market by Spring 23 compared to last year,with a massive level of adoption on the market which makes it a Safe

90、 Bet.The skirt is also appealing to all three consumer segments.When In Doubt1.PHIL OH2.MELODIE JENG3.PHIL OH4.NICHOLAS DALEY5.ANNE ISABELLA 4.2.3.5.1.3.4.2.3.4.5.Women-2%In Spring 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVESegmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY Safe Bet1.MIU MIU 2.MANEMANESTUDIO3.MELODIE JENG4.M

91、ODE HUNTER5.GEORGES WENDELL Pleated SkirtsExposed BoxersThe exposed boxer trend is nothing new for menswear,however,it is interesting to see women adapting the styling trend as well.Exposed underwear was featured in Miu Mius viral FW 22 collection,paired with a micro mini skirt.We are seeing the exp

92、osed boxer look appear on mens and womenswear on the runways,street style,and featured by emerging brands signifying that this look is widely appealing across different consumer segments.Underwear meets outerwear3.1.4.1.5.3.1.DIOR HOMME2.MSGM3.STREETSTYLESTARS4.LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN5.KSENIA SCHNAI

93、DER1.2.Thin ScarvesThe thin scarf for men has been slowly coming back in style for both mens and womenswear,featured in several collections in the past two fashion weeks.The thin scarf was popular in the late nineties to early aughts and is notoriously impractical in providing warmth.The thin scarfs

94、 appeal is purely aesthetic,often appearing in flashy materials like sequins.Fashion over function2.3.1.4.3.1.DRIES VAN NOTEN2.ACIELLE3.KIKO KOSTADINOV4.ERDEM5.MIUMIU1.5.5.Pearl NecklacesPearl jewelry has become a staple for menswear in recent months,thanks to the likes of Tyler the Creator and the

95、E-boy archetype who have normalized pearls for men.Pearl necklaces have been featured on both men and women by brands like Casablanca,Dior,and Valentino in recent collections,attesting to the wide adoption of the accessory.The pearl necklace is very much in line with the new trend of soft femininity

96、 that many men are starting to embrace.Dainty and delicate3.4.1.4.3.1.FENDI2.MAXFIELDLA3.VALENTINO4.TANNER FLETCHER5.TOM FORD1.2.Neck TieThe necktie is clearly a traditional“masculine”accessory that has been emerging in the realm of womenswear as of late.The necktie trend is tied to the resurgence o

97、f punk aesthetics(popularized by Avril Lavigne in the early 2000s)that has flourished amongst Gen Z on Tik Tok.The tie trend is also linked to the rise of preppy collegiate aesthetics,evidenced by the Dark/Light Academia subcultures.The tie was a prominent feature in both mens and womens FW 22 colle

98、ctions as well as street style.Back to Business3.4.1.4.3.1.LOUIS VUITTON2.PHIL OH3.DANIEL W.FLETCHER4.RHUDE5.ACIELLE1.2.5.1.A gender-fluid collection is not designed nor marketed toward any specific gender and refrains from splitting nor distinguish any item,colour,print,form,fabric etc.,into gender

99、 binaries.2.Gender fluidity expressed through fashion has always been a dangerous act,pioneered by those who live in defiance of gender conventions to pave the way for a new freedom of expression.The Peacock Revolution opened the ground for the new dandified and effeminate man,while the Tomboy subcu

100、lture helped establish the new role of women in society.3.The contemporary Tomboy persona is a continuation of the historical Tomboy archetype combined with Hip Hop references.The style includes baggy silhouettes,streetwear influences,and a gorpcore slant4.The Softboy is another key persona embodied

101、 by the likes of Timothee Chalamet and Harry Styles,The Softboy is not afraid to embrace his sensitive side,and incorporates“feminine”elements like lace and pastel colors into his wardrobe5.The Non-Conformist persona is not linked to any specific gender.Rather,it describes an ostentatious,playful,DIY aesthetic that is embodied by model and artist Angel Prost.KeyTakeawaysVogueVogueActually,we didnt tell you everythingFor the full report,please get in touch at:You can also subscribe to our newsletter to never miss our next reports or webinarsSubscribe to our newsletter

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