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1、Ron LachMens SS 23 Fashion Week Report INDEX123 4 City Spotlight Thematic Trend AnalysisStar TrendsEarly Signals:Emerging TrendsEmerging trends to keep an eye on The most popular trends of the SS 23 season Bohemian Prep Casual EleganceGeorges WendellThe top runway trends,divided by city,analyzed by
2、our AIThis season,fashion week was all about reinventing menswear.Designers were not afraid to break traditional gendered norms of dressing,instead embracing a more fluid approach for their SS 23 collections.This free approach to menswear resulted in fun,irreverent collections from indie and luxury
3、brands alike,possibly indicating a new era of mens fashion that is far more expressive than what it has been in the past.Youth was a major focus for many brands this season,outlined by our“Bohemian Prep”theme.Brands were inspired by collegiate style,reflected through an abundance of varsity jackets,
4、polo shirts,and neckties on the runways-in fact,a surprising number of shows like Bluemarble,Y/Project,and Kiko Kostadinov were held at lyces in Paris.Another aspect of our Bohemian Prep theme stems from Californian skateboarding and surf culture;on the runways,this inspiration resulted in items lik
5、e exposed boxer shorts,thong sandals,beaded jewelry,and tie dyed garments forming a strong look.Menswear ReimaginedEditoWhile menswear codes are being reimagined,the suit remains a key part of the vestiare,and was one of the most popular trends on the runways.However,the suits this season were far f
6、rom being stiff and old-fashioned;a popular styling choice was wearing a suit with no shirt underneath,suits combined with ultra mini shorts,or all over prints were used to breathe new life into the classic silhouette.Paul Smith summarized the renewed appetite for the look,stating“now the suit is co
7、ol,”especially amongst younger customers who are“desperate to wear suits.”In addition to the focus on suiting and youthful surf/skate culture with a varsity twist,there were plenty of other sources of inspiration to be found throughout brands SS 23 collections-for instance,we saw western wear at Cas
8、ablanca,Greg Lauren,and Thom Browne.Pyjamas were another major trend this season,seen at Etro,Givenchy,and Rhude.Given the high level of creativity and variety in terms of inspiration and silhouettes on the runways this season,the future of menswear is very much about embracing fluidity.Greg LaurenC
9、itySpotlight1Young n Sang1.TIGER OF SWEDEN2.ERDEM3.ROBYN LYNCH1.AHLUWALIA2.JORDANLUCA3.LABRUM LONDONBlazer Jackets35%Top trendsLondonNotched Collar Shirts4%Tailored Pants 30%In London,the Blazer Jackets represented more than a third of the outerwear shapes detected,but this classic piece was interes
10、tingly enough breaking free from classical tailoring.Details such as flower prints,damas,or crystal embroideriesgave the wardrobe staple a quirky twist.Paired with Tailored Pants and Notched Collar Shirts,a chic and yet whimsical silhouette was represented by brands like Erdem or Ahluwalia in their
11、SS 23 collections.1.ALEXANDER MCQUEEN2.ERDEM3.CARLOTA BARRERA1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.Car Coats10%Top trendsMilanRound Neck Jumper6%Full Casual Pants14%1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.1.ZEGNA2.FENDI3.PRADA1.ASPESI2.JW ANDERSON3.DSQUARED21.VERSACE2.MISSONI3.ETRO Milan focused on an effortless demeanor while still staying
12、 true to sartorial heritage.Car Coats were one of the key styles shown in the Italian city.They were seen in different lengths and materials,such as a slightly see-through,rainproof material atZegna or in full leather at Prada.Formal looks were often styled with a slouchy Round Neck Jumper,worn over
13、sized to evoke a nonchalance.This easy look was further pushed when combined with a Full Casual Pant,as seen at Versace and Etro.Shirt Jackets14%Top trendsParisKnitted Tops30%Wide Leg Shorts55%1.ISABEL MARANT2.WOOYOUNGMI3.LOUIS VUITTON1.AMIRI2.EGONLAB3.LUKHANYO MDINGI1.DIOR MEN2.RHUDE3.KIKO KOSTADIN
14、OV 1.2.3.1.2.3.1.2.3.Wide Leg Shorts represented an astonishing share of 55%among all looks including shorts in the French capital.The shape carries a laidback allure,often inspired by teenage years as seen at Acne Studios and Bluemarble.In Paris,30%of tops were knitted this season with intricate op
15、en knit and mohair crafts answering the need for light and layerable summer looks.Finally,the Shirt Jacket was a wardrobe staple that designers played with in their collections.Thematic TrendsAnalysis2Isabel MarantBohemian PrepCalifornia was a major source of inspiration for many brands collections
16、throughout SS 23 mens fashion week.The Cali inspiration was often imbued with references to highschool,surfing,and skate culture,creating an intriguing combination of prep and“hippie”style.It is interesting to note that the Bohemian Prep theme was appealing to luxury and indie brands alike;Fendis co
17、llection was“rooted in a mid 90s Cali workwear/skatewear aesthetic”(a skateboard was even used as an accessory for one look),while Bluemarbles show,held in a Parisien California Dreaming1.MSGM2.EGONLAB3.BLUEMARBLE4.RHUDElyce,was based upon the dream of going back in time to the California desert to
18、experience the Monterey festival.Countless brands dfils took place at high schools,driving home the varsity inspiration.Since the theme is partially defined by youth,there was a strong sense of rebellion where irreverent styling,daring silhouettes,and bold prints and colors,were some of the key elem
19、ents of the aesthetic.Boxer shorts,diffusion dye,polo shirts,varsity jackets,and distressed materials are amongst the stand-out trends in the realm of Bohemian Prep.1.3.4.1.2.Varsity JacketsPolo ShirtsKeyShapesBoxer ShortsBohemian Prep+3%In Summer 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MASSIVERunway Share 1.2%Ann
20、ual Growth-1%Segmentation MAINSTREAM,TRENDY&EDGY+12%In Summer 23 vs.last yearMagnitude MEDIUMRunway Share 3.5%Annual Growth+9%Segmentation EDGYKeyShapes1.EYTYS2.MSGM3.AHLUWALIA4.AMIRI5.EGONLAB2.4.3.5.1.Bohemian PrepPolo ShirtsThe Polo Shirt is a no brainer to evoke the collegiate style.Brands often
21、paired the shape with beachy garments,embodying the aesthetic of Bohemian Prep.Boxer ShortsBoxer Shorts were a breakout trend this season,appearing either on their own or styled with pants and an exposed waistband.Its ubiquity on the runways represents a return to comfort dressing in fashion.Varsity
22、 JacketsThe Varsity Jacket was a staple outerwear piece on the SS 23 runways,signalling a prep resurgence.The jacket was often styled with sporty garments like track pants or sneakers to create a youthful look.ColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsText&GraphicDiffusion DyeStripesTurquoisePinkOrangeS
23、ee ThroughKnitsDistressedThongsPolo NecklineVarsity JacketWallet BagShapesPendant NecklaceBohemian Prep-Starter PackBoxer ShortsCasual EleganceThe Casual Elegance theme describes the increasingly unorthodox approach that independent brands and even heritage luxury houses are taking to mens tailoring
24、.The theme is characterized by the combination of formal and casual elements,representing a fresh vision of menswear in a world where a stiff suiting is quite outdated indeed.Brands created a sense of casualness through styling choices,such as a suit with no shirt underneath seen by the likes of Bia
25、nca Saunders or Etudes,whose collection was all about injecting urban staples like Tailoring Reinvented1.THE ROW2.LEMAIRE3.OFFICINE GENERALE4.DIOR HOMMEsweatshirts and hoodies with“a certain elegance.”Dior Homme was also in line with our theme of Casual Elegance,pairing outdoorsy elements like a fle
26、ece jacket with satin tailored shorts,or even hiking boots styled with a suit to reinvent traditional menswear tailoring codes.The color palette of the theme is comprised of neutral and pastel tones;where monochromatic or tonal looks are a key defining factor of the theme.Pairing white with shades o
27、f light khaki and beige was one of the most popular color pairings,seen by brands like The Row and Lemaire.1.3.4.1.2.Button Down ShirtBlazerKeyShapesTailored ShortsCasual Elegance-1%In Summer 23 vs.last yearAnnual Growth+0%Runway Share 2.15%Magnitude BIGSegmentation MAINSTREAM+1%In Summer 23 vs.last
28、 yearAnnual Growth+9%Runway Share 43.8%Magnitude MASSIVESegmentation EDGY&TRENDYKey Shapes1.THE ROW2.DIOR HOMME3.DRIES VAN NOTEN4.LABRUM LONDON5.LEMAIRE2.4.3.5.1.Casual EleganceBlazersBlazers in relaxed materials like linen,styled with casual garments were a staple silhouette to the Casual Elegance
29、theme.Double breasted blazers were a popular cut this season,seen by brands like Dior and Labrum London.Tailored ShortsTailored Shorts in luxurious yet comfortable materials like satin or linen most often appeared styled with button down shirts,or part of a casual short suit this SS 23 season.Button
30、 Down ShirtsThe Button Down Shirt is another timeless silhouette that was all over the runways this season.It was seen in lightweight materials like linen or cotton in oversized cuts for a breezy summer look.ColorsPrintsMaterialsAccessoriesBrandsFloralsCheckedPlainOff WhiteLight BlueBeigeSatinRainpr
31、oofLinenLoafersBlazersButton Down ShirtsCrossbody BagsShapesBroochTailored ShortsCasual Elegance-Starter PackStarTrends3Young n SangStar Trends Star Trends are selected by our fashion experts as the most visible styles on the runways.With their popularity,we prefer not to box them into a theme,but r
32、ather explore examples of design and styling adapted for edgy or mainstream consumers.These trends are thus a must-have in your SS 23 collection.WinnieDenim1.AMIRI2.Y/PROJECT3.JW ANDERSON1.2.3.1%In Summer 23 vs.last yearAnnual Growth-2%Runway Share 39%Magnitude MASSIVESegmentation TRENDY&MAINSTREAMD
33、enim was perhaps the most popular fabric choice throughout all cities on mens SS 23 runways.The material has an outstanding runway share of 39%,indicating the percentage of images in which Denim was detected.Brands unleashed their creativity with Denim;head to toe printed Denim looks,dyed Denim,ripp
34、ed Denim pieces,and Denim accessories were all popular.The Y/Project show was a standout,using the material as a trompe loeil print.DenimEdgy Looks4.2.3.5.1.1.FENG CHEN WANG2.AGR3.MARINE SERRE4.EYTYS5.Y/PROJECTDenimMainstream Looks4.2.3.5.1.1.BRUNELLO CUCINELLI2.BIANCA SAUNDERS3.KOLOR4.WOOYOUNGMI5.I
35、SABEL MARANT4.Denim Runway Adoption:from Classic to EdgyMainstreamEdgyBRUNELLO CUCINELLIBIANCA SAUNDERSCLOSEDFEDERICO CINAHED MAYNERDOLCE&GABBANACargo Pockets1.LOUIS VUITTON2.VUARNET3.AHLUWALIA1.2.3.The Cargo Pocket trend has been going strong for several seasons now,and based on the SS 23 runways,i
36、t wont be disappearing anytime soon.In addition to the classic cargo pant,brands applied Cargo Pockets to all types of silhouettes.Moreover,Cargo Pockets often appeared in denim fabrications,combining two of the star trends of the mens SS 23 collections.Marine Serre,Vuarnet and Reese Cooper pushed t
37、he trend to its extreme with an overload in Cargo Pockets.Cargo PocketsEdgy Looks4.2.3.5.1.1.MARINE SERRE 2.RICK OWENS3.MAGLIANO4.REESE COOPER5.DOLCE&GABBANACargo PocketsMainstream Looks4.2.3.5.1.1.HERMES2.AMI3.FENDI4.BRUNELLO CUCINELLI5.EMPORIO ARMANI4.Cargo Pockets Runway Adoption:from Classic to
38、EdgyMainstreamEdgyBRUNELLO CUCINELLIWOOYOUNGMIGIVENCHYY/PROJECTREESE COOPERLOUIS VUITTONNeckties1.GEORGES WENDELL2.ERNEST W.BAKER3.WINNIE1.2.3.While the fashion world debates the death of the tie in formal business environments,the runways have never been so flooded with them.One mans trash being an
39、other mans treasure is a great way to interpret the cropped or extra long Neckties seen in edgier adoptions of the accessory.Moreover,for the more irreverent dressers out there,the Necktie has been interpreted as a playful addition to a casual denim or even varsity athletics look.It comes as no surp
40、rise,however,that collections by Dries Van Noten or Brunello Cucinelli included Neckties styled classically,as fanatics of a truly timeless accessory will never let it die.NecktiesEdgy Looks4.2.3.5.1.1.KENZO2.SULVAM3.THOM BROWNE4.MSGM5.MAISON MIHARA YASUHIRONecktiesMainstream Looks4.2.3.5.1.1.ERNEST
41、 W.BAKER2.DRIES VAN NOTEN3.BRUNELLO CUCINELLI4.ERDEM5.PRADAKITON4.Neckties Runway Adoption:from Classic to EdgyMainstreamEdgyPRADAPAUL SMITHMSGMCRAIG GREENCELINEEarly Signals:Emerging Trends4VuarnetEarly Signals Early Signals represent the emerging trends our fashion experts have picked up on from t
42、he SS 23 collections that have not been visible in previous seasons.We expect to see a continuation in the development of these trends in future fashion collections,thus,they can serve as inspiration for those willing to experiment with new styles and capture an avant-garde audience.Greg LaurenPyjam
43、asSleepy Time4.2.3.5.1.1.ERDEM2.GIVENCHY3.RHUDE4.MSGM5.ETROTerry ClothBeach Mode4.2.3.5.1.1.MAGLIANO2.GUNTHER 3.MARINE SERRE4.DOLCE&GABBANA5.TODSBucketBag Gorpcore to Classic4.2.3.5.1.1.TODS2.DSQUARED23.KENZO4.ETRO5.FENDI1.The City Spotlight outlines some of the most represented runway trends in Lon
44、don,Milan,and Paris,detected by our AI.2.Bohemian Prep describes a collegiate style mixed with influences from skate and surf culture.The theme is very youthful,and finds its origin in California-a place many designers were inspired by this season.3.The Casual Elegance aesthetic is all about suiting
45、.The Suit was a major focus for most brands this season,giving the silhouette a twist through unexpected styling,prints,and fabric choices.4.Denim,Cargo Pockets,Suits,Tank Tops,and Neckties were the star trends of the season,meaning they were present in nearly every runway show,spotted in both of ou
46、r key themes.These trends are must-have menswear styles for an upcoming SS 23 collection assortment.5.Our emerging trends section outlines the up-and-coming trends with current low visibility,expected to pick up in popularity in upcoming seasons.These trends are ideal to attract an edgier consumer.KeyTakeawaysSeaVuarnetGeorges WendellActually,we didnt tell you everythingFor the full report,please get in touch at:You can also subscribe to our newsletter to be notified of our next reports and webinarsSubscribe to our newsletter