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1、2023 EditionA review of 60 of the largest fashion brands and retailers in the Brazilian market,ranked according to their level of public disclosure on human rights and environmental policies,practices and impacts.FASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION2EXECUTIVE SUMMARYAbout Fashion
2、 RevolutionAbout the Fashion Transparency IndexIntroductionHow the Index has changed this yearKey Findings KEY RESULTS ABOUT THIS INDEXThe changes we want to seeThe role of transparency in achieving changeThe role&aims of the Fashion Transparency IndexHow the Fashion Transparency Index drives change
3、Case study:Why transparency is needed for the leather industryCase study:Water risks and opportunities in apparel and textile clusters METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHHow brands and retailers are selectedWhat does brand participation mean?The 60 brands selectedThe scope or our researchAbout the res
4、earch processAbout the methodologyMethodology advisory committeeAbout the annual review of the IndexAdapting the methodology to the Brazilian contextLimitations of the researchHow we calculate the findingsWeighting of the scoresA guide to the final scoring FULL RESULTSThe final scoresAverage scores
5、across the sectionsPOLICIES&COMMITMENTSQuote:Renata Scarellis,Mercy for AnimalsGOVERNANCEViewpoint:Valeria Caf,Instituto Brasileiro de Governana Corporativa(IBGC)SUPPLY CHAIN TRACEABILITYQuote:Natalie Grillon,Open Supply Hub Viewpoint:Jessica Pedreira,Instituto Sociedade,Populao e Natureza(ISPN)KNOW
6、,SHOW,FIXSPOTLIGHT ISSUESDECENT WORK&PURCHASING PRACTICESViewpoint:Glaucia Terreo,ESG Materiality and Sustainability ConsultantQuote:Natalie Swan,Business and Human Rights Resource CentreInterview:Dilma Chilaca,Centro da Mulher Imigrante e Refugiada(CEMIR)GENDER AND RACIAL EQUALITYViewpoint:Gabriela
7、 Antonia,SOS AmazniaViewpoint:Caroline Rodrigues Silva,Instituto Brasileiro da Diversidade SUSTAINABLE SOURCING&MATERIALSViewpoint:Leonidia Insfran de Oliveira Carvalho,Quilombo Dona BilinaOVERCONSUMPTION,WASTE&CIRCULARITYViewpoint:Alice Beyer Schuch,specialist in circular fashion and Gabriela Macha
8、do,journalist specialised in research for sustainability and innovationWATER&CHEMICALSCLIMATE AND BIODIVERSITYQuote:Rita Huni Kuin,Visual artistQuote:Samara Borari,Climate activistViewpoint:Natalie Unterstell,Instituto Talanoa FINAL RECOMMENDATIONSTake action on transparencyThank YouReferencesDiscla
9、imer Supporters344567383940445464849505828393969996644CONTENTSEXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION4EXECUTIVE SUMMARYABOUTFASHION REVOLUTIONTHE FASHION TRANSPARENCY
10、INDEXFashion Revolution is the largest fashion activism movement in the world and works towards a vision of a fashion industry that conserves and restores the environment and values people over growth and profit.The Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh instigated the creation of Fashion Revolution and
11、spurred millions to join our call for greater transparency and accountability in the fashion industry.The issues in the fashion industry never fall on any single person,brand,or company.Thats why we focus on using our voices to transform the entire system.With systemic and structural change,the fash
12、ion industry can lift millions of people out of poverty and provide them with decent and dignified livelihoods.It can conserve and restore our living planet.It can bring people together and be a great source of creativity and expression for individuals and communities.In Brazil,since 2014,there have
13、 been actions to develop projects,carry out activities and foster the creation of a network of people,initiatives,and organisations in the sector.In 2018,this network of activities became the Instituto Fashion Revolution Brasil,a civil society organisation.The Fashion Transparency Index Brazil is an
14、 annual review of the largest Brazilian fashion brands and retailers ranked according to their level of public disclosure on human rights and environmental policies,practices and impacts in their own operations and in their supply chains.We focus on the biggest and most profitable brands and retaile
15、rs because they have the biggest negative impacts on workers and the environment and therefore have the greatest responsibility to change.Transparency is foundational to achieving systemic change in the global fashion industry,which is why we have been campaigning for it since 2014 and why we create
16、d this tool.Transparency underpins transformative change but unfortunately,much of the fashion value chain remains opaque while exploitation thrives with impunity.Transparency is not to be confused with sustainability.Transparency is a first step;it is not radical,but it is necessary.However,without
17、 transparency,achieving a sustainable,accountable and fair fashion industry will be impossible.For a deeper dive into how this Index works,why transparency matters and the methodology,please see the two chapters below:About this Index;Methodology&Scope of Research.The Fashion Transparency Index Braz
18、il reviews brands public disclosure across 263 indicators in 5 key areas:1.Policy&Commitments 2.Governance3.Traceability 4.Know,Show&Fix 5.Spotlight Issues,which this year covers:Decent work,covering forced and bonded labour,living wages,purchasing practices,unionisation and collective bargaining Ge
19、nder and racial equality Sustainable sourcing and materials Overconsumption,waste and circularity Water and chemicals Climate change&biodiversityFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION5INTRODUCTIONFor another year,the progress on transparency for most of the largest fashion brands a
20、nd retailers operating in Brazil remains slow.On the other hand,the climate crisis,social inequality and precariousness of jobs are intensifying rapidly.The effects of the environmental collapse are already being felt from North to South in our country.The Amazon region is facing an extreme drought
21、that has led the Negro River,one of the largest in the region,to reach its lowest level in 120 years.Meanwhile,the population of Manaus was trapped by smoke from fires that made the air quality one of the worst in the world.In February this year,the north coast of So Paulo was hit by the most intens
22、e storm ever recorded in the country,leading to one of the largest environmental tragedies in the state.In addition,the federal governments“Dirty List of Forced Labour”with the names of employers who subjected workers to conditions of forced labour had its biggest update since its creation in 2003.A
23、ll these facts show that we are reaching crises never before experienced.Fashion as part of a global industry worth more than a trillion dollars cannot continue to be indebted to the environment and the people who make our clothes.Transparency is the first step towards a systemic change in fashion.H
24、owever,for many brands,this journey has not yet begun.For almost a decade,we have been raising the flag for transparency throughout the fashion value chain as we understand that it is essential to reveal and understand the structures in place in order to change them.Transparency leads to responsibil
25、ity and accountability,which then leads to changes in practice.The Fashion Transparency Index Brazil has been a valuable tool for opening dialogue not only with some of the major brands and retailers in the country but also with other civil society organisations,researchers,journalists and citizens.
26、We hope that being included in the Fashion Transparency Index can serve as a wake-up call for brands and leads to concrete actions to improve their impacts.We also hope that the data from this research shows that fashion must be considered on the political agenda,thereby leading to the creation of r
27、egulations that pressure brands for greater social and environmental responsibility since the self-regulation of companies has proven to be inefficient.We will not be able to move towards a more ethical future in fashion without putting the rights of Nature and the people who make our clothes-from f
28、armers and seamstresses to salespeople and those in charge of waste disposal-at the centre of the discussions.The time to reverse the current crises is running out and we need to come together as a sector to act more quickly and effectively.We invite you to take the first step:Read and reflect on th
29、e results presented in this report.We hope that this material encourages you to take action,regardless of the role you play within this system-designer,journalist,researcher,consumer,fashion lover or citizen of the world.May this report,prepared by several hands,awaken and fuel the activist in you!I
30、sabella Luglio Fashion Transparency Index Brazil Coordinator EXECUTIVE SUMMARYPhoto:Frum Fashion Revolution 2023FASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION6Over the past few years,we have conducted a detailed review of the Index globally and in Brazil through stakeholder interviews,medi
31、a analysis and surveys.As a result,we have taken a range of steps to strengthen the methodology as well as to push brands and retailers to go above and beyond policies and commitments,including moving towards more public disclosure on the implementation and outcomes of their efforts.This year,in lin
32、e with Fashion Revolutions campaign strategies at a global level,we added indicators on the payment of living wage.These new indicators seek transparency on topics such as the monthly take-home wage of workers in the supply chain and the percentage of these workers paid per piece produced.We also ad
33、ded indicators related to the climate crisis,such as energy consumption per supplier facility,the proportion of production still powered by coal,commitments and investments in decarbonisation as well as verified Science-Based Targets.Other indicators added refer to issues such as the length of relat
34、ionship with suppliers,actions to avoid cases of racism in shops,commitment to degrowth,professional development for workers insupply chains-aiming to prepare them for a transition to the circular economy-and water consumption by suppliers.For now,some of these new indicators have been added without
35、 us assigning them any scores.This decision was made because,before assigning points,we would like to understand the national scenario concerning the disclosure of this type of information.In addition,as of this year,we have not accepted lists of suppliers from brands that do not have a significant
36、proportion of at least 60%of first-tier suppliers and manufacturing and processing facilities.More details on the changes made this year can be found throughout the chapters of this report.We continue to publish Communications Guidelines for the brands and retailers reviewed in order to avoid this I
37、ndex being misunderstood or misused by brands,such as for greenwashing purposes or other types of misinterpretations.We are committed to drawing attention to misuses of the Index and we will seek to request corrections of any misleading communications we discover.If you identify anything of concern
38、being shared about the Index or its content,please let us know.You can read our Communication Guidelines here.HOW THE INDEX HAS CHANGED THIS YEARThe Fashion Transparency Index Brazil is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International(CC BY-NC 4.0).It is not a Free Cultu
39、re Licence.Please see this link for more information.We do not grant any licence to use the raw data that we compiled to produce this Index and that we make available in the dataset file.You are only permitted to view the Raw Data File.You are free to copy and redistribute the Fashion Transparency I
40、ndex Brazil in any medium or format provided that you give Fashion Revolution CIC and Fashion Revolution Brazil credit for creating it.This licence does not give you the right to alter,remix,transform,translate or otherwise modify the content in any way.This includes providing it as part of a paid s
41、ervice,nor as part of a consultancy or other service offering.You must contact Fashion Revolution transparencyfashionrevolution.org at to obtain a licence if you want to commercialise the whole or any part of this Index.WELCOMING YOUR FEEDBACK We recognise that the Index can always be improved.Any c
42、omments or questions are welcome.Write to isabellafashionrevolution.org.LICENCES CREATIVE COMMONSEXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION7The Fashion Transparency Index Brazil 2023 shows significant increases in disclosure by some brands,but the vast majority are sti
43、ll not transparent about their social and environmental impacts.The year 2023 marks the sixth edition of the Fashion Transparency Index Brazil and we can see progress by some of the brands reviewed towards greater transparency of their policies,practices and social and environmental impacts througho
44、ut the value chain.For the first time since the first edition of the report in 2018,six brands scored above 60%.They were:C&A,with 70%;Malwee,with 68%;Dafiti,with 67%;Renner and Youcom,both with 65%;and Havaianas,with 62%.In previous editions,only one or two brands were ranked in this range.In addit
45、ion,we observed the highest overall average ever achieved over the years:22%of the total available points.This progress is also reflected when we analyse the overall average score in each of the five sections of the questionnaire that presented their record scores.Despite this progress,almost half o
46、f the brands reviewed(48%)still have very little transparency or are not transparent at all,scoring less than 10%.Among these,16 brands scored zero:Besni,Brooksfield,Carmen Steffens,Cia.Martima,Colcci,Di Santinni,Dumond,Frum,Havan,Leader,Lojas Avenida,Lojas Pompeia,Marisol,Moleca,Sawary,and TNG.It i
47、s worth mentioning that most of these brands have remained stagnant since their inclusion in the Fashion Transparency Index Brazil.As in previous editions,brands tend to disclose more information about their policies and commitments and less detailed data on their social and environmental impacts.Th
48、us,the section with the highest score continues to be the first,Policies and Commitments,with 36%,and the section with the lowest score also continues to be the Spotlight Issues section,with 16%.Even brands with higher scores on the Index lack transparency on important issues such as the payment of
49、a living wage to workers in the supply chain,purchasing practices,gender and racial equality,overproduction,waste,circularity,water and chemical use,deforestation and carbon emissions in the supply chain.Without greater transparency from brands on the full range of indicators included in the Index,w
50、e cannot have visibility or be sure as to whether they are significantly tackling global inequality and the climate crisis.Transparency is key for civil society and other stakeholders to hold the fashion industry accountable and demand actions with a concrete positive impact.This year,we saw a recor
51、d number of brands publishing lists with a selection of their raw material suppliers.This years results show that 38%of the 60 brands reviewed disclose a list with at least 60%of their first-tier suppliers,that is,those responsible for the cutting,sewing and finishing of garments.Although this resul
52、t represents a subtle increase compared to the 2022 results,in which 33%of companies disclosed this data,transparency at this level is still below that found by the Global Index.In the global research conducted among the 250 largest fashion brands and retailers worldwide,it was identified that 53%of
53、 them disclose their lists of direct suppliers.Regarding the transparency on the suppliers responsible for the processing stages of production,we noted that the average score found among the brands reviewed by the Brazilian Index is similar to the overall average at global level,with 35%and 36%,resp
54、ectively.KEY FINDINGSFor the first time since the first edition of the report in 2018,six brands scored above 60%.Despite this progress,16 brands scored zeroEXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION8However,surprisingly,we identified a significant increase when examin
55、ing the disclosure of lists of raw material suppliers by the brands.While last year,only 8%of companies disclosed lists with a selection of suppliers of the main raw materials used,this year the result increased to 25%.This result is higher than the 12%found in the Global Index.While we applaud the
56、improvement in this section,especially about raw material suppliers,a meaningful social and environmental due diligence requires the existence of complete traceable data on the fashion sectors supply chain.In this sense,the fact that more than half of the brands(57%)do not disclose any information a
57、bout the Traceability section is worrying.This means we have no information on where many of the largest and most profitable nationally operating brands make their clothes.By not disclosing the facilities in which their products are made,brands make it difficult to be held accountable for their impa
58、cts on human rights and the environment.In a world increasingly impacted by the climate crisis and job insecurity,there should not be any room for brands to remain opaque about their supply chains.Among the five brands with the biggest performance increases this year,four are from the underwear sect
59、or.The five biggest movers this year were DeMillus,Hope,Lupo,Nike and Trifil.Looking at lingerie brands,one of the main factors that drove the increase in their scores was the disclosure of supplier lists at all three levels,from direct facilities to their main raw material suppliers.This improvemen
60、t is significant,as it demonstrates the progress in transparency practices in a segment that,in addition to having its own stores,also is a supplier of finished underwear products to several fashion retailers,many of which are reviewed by this Index.Illustration:Daniella Gonalves-Frum Fashion Revolu
61、tion 2022“WHAT DO YOU DRESS UP AS?”EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION9More than half of brands(55%)disclose a supplier policy to combat modern slavery,but only 27%disclose how they identify and prioritise risks,impacts and human rights violations in their suppl
62、y chain.This year marked a record for rescuing victims of slave-like labour in the brazilian countryside,and the Dirty List of modern slavery had its biggest update in history,with 204 new names.This news proves that forced labour is still used in several sectors,and the fashion industry,unfortunate
63、ly,is not immune to these practices.It is positive that more than half of the brands reviewed(55%)have a policy for their suppliers against the use of contemporary slave labour.On the other hand,it is worrying to compare this figure with the number of companies that disclose their approach to conduc
64、ting human rights due diligence(27%)and those that disclose the main risks,impacts and human rights violations identified through this process(25%).The percentage further decreases to 20%when we look for data on the prevalence of modern slavery-related violations or the existence of risk factors suc
65、h as excessive and forced overtime,restricted freedom of movement,retention of workers passports or other personal documents as well as debt bondage.This difference in disclosure raises the following questions:What is really being monitored?Do brands have robust internal due diligence processes?Is t
66、he existence of a policy sufficient to curb precarious work?Another point to highlight based on this research is related to foreign and migrant labour,commonly used by the clothing manufacturing industry in Brazil and worldwide.While 32%of brands disclose their policies on foreign and migrant labour
67、,only 13%publish their actions related to the regularisation of these workers in their supply chain.In this sense,it is necessary to remember that migrant workers are more susceptible to human trafficking and modern slavery.Debt bondage,false promises,document retention and threats of violence and d
68、eportation are all common problems that they face in the fashion industry.The results of this years Index reinforce that,in addition to an established worker protection policy,brands must conduct robust human rights due diligence processes.Through these processes,they can publicly disclose their app
69、roaches and main risks and violations identified as well as the actions taken to prevent them with their respective results.Despite the increase in deforestation and the subsequent loss of biodiversity in Brazil,brands disclose more information about their biodiversity protection policies than about
70、 effective actions to regenerate and combat deforestation.Of the brands reviewed,43%publish biodiversity and conservation policies for their own operations and 35%for their supply chain.As we look for more detailed data on the disclosure of what actions brands take to protect biodiversity,we can see
71、 that transparency decreases.For example,28%disclose how they identify and prioritise environmental risks,impacts and violations in their supply chain.The numbers are even lower when we look for disclosures on regenerative agricultural practices and commitments to zero deforestation:only 8%of compan
72、ies disclose how they implement regenerative agricultural practices in one or more raw material sources and only 10%disclose a measurable and time-bound commitment to zero deforestation.Although there has been important progress in relation to the 2022 result,in which no brand disclosed a commitment
73、 against deforestation,this number is still very low considering the accelerated loss of diversity that we are facing globally.A WWF report shows that,in the last 50 years,the monitored wildlife populations in Latin America have declined in abundance by 94%.Only 8%of companies disclose how they impl
74、ement regenerative agricultural practices.EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION10 Deforestation is one of the direct causes of biodiversity loss,and the biomes from Brazil remain threatened.Fashion is intrinsically related to deforestation since the production cha
75、ins of raw materials are often associated with this practice.Two examples of this would be the deforestation of the Amazon rainforest linked toleather production and the devastation of the Cerrado to plant cotton in transgenic monoculture.To make matters worse,Brazils indigenous population-which pla
76、ys a crucial role in protecting biodiversity-is struggling to preserve its existence.An example of this is the mobilisation against the approval of the Marco Temporal(Temporal Framework):a bill that seeks to change the policy of demarcating indigenous lands in Brazil.If approved,14%of the Brazilian
77、territory and the biodiversity that lives within that territory could be vulnerable to the expansion of illegal commodity production,land grabbing,illegal mining and deforestation.We expect brands to recognise the negative impacts they have on the environment and make more ambitious commitments to p
78、rotect biodiversity and prohibit deforestation.An effective way to prove this commitment is through public targets or commitments,but mainly through the disclosure of effective actions taken based on these policies.Only 10%disclose ameasurable and time-bound commitment to zero deforestation.EXECUTIV
79、E SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION11Due to greater pressure from civil society on companies carbon footprint,there has been an increase in the number of brands publishing data on their greenhouse gas emissions.However,the disclosure of time-bound decarbonisation target
80、s is still minimal in the sector.This year,we have seen an increase in the number of brands disclosing their carbon footprint.Almost half of the companies(45%)disclose the emissions from their own facilities and 40%disclose the emissions related to their supply chain,that is,where the goods and serv
81、ices are produced or purchased.This data represents an increase of 12 percentage points compared to the 2022 results.Although the increase in the disclosure of the carbon footprint is positive,the other indicators related to the climate crisis show little progress and remain low.Only 15%of brands pu
82、blish a measurable and time-bound decarbonisation commitment that is verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative and only 2%publish near(5-10 years)and long-term(by 2040 or 2050)Science-Based Targets.The targets describe the path to be taken by a company to reduce its emissions,and without visi
83、bility into this strategy,it is difficult to hold companies accountable for their decarbonisation commitment.In addition,for the decarbonisation of fashion,it is essential that the fashion sector drastically reduces its dependence on fossil fuels-exemplified by the use in the production of synthetic
84、 fibres and as an energy source along global supply chains.Among the brands reviewed,22%publish measurable and time-bound targets to reduce textile products derived from virgin petroleum and only 8%publish what proportion of their production is powered by coal.Transparency on the industrys reliance
85、on fossil fuels in supply chains is critical.In this sense,brands must take appropriate measures to support their suppliers in a transition to a green production model and advocate that the governments of the garment producing countries increase the accessibility to renewable energy.The phasing out
86、of coal,for example,involves significant costs that can be prohibitive for factories operating on narrow margins.For this reason,brands should co-finance the decarbonisation of their supply chains rather than shifting costs to their suppliers.Transparency on gender issues in suppliers remains low,wh
87、ich raises questions about the inclusion of women in key conversations to improve the sector.Women represent a large proportion of the workforce in global fashion supply chains.Despite this,this years results show a stagnation on gender-related indicators at supplier level,which makes us question ho
88、w women are treated and heard throughout the supply chain.Less than a third of the brands(30%)disclose the gender breakdown of workers in each direct supplier facility.This number is even lower as we distance ourselves along the supply chain,with 20%disclosing this information on processing faciliti
89、es and only 2%on raw materials suppliers.It is noteworthy that these data have remained stable since the 2021 Index.22%publish measurable and time-bound targets to reduce textile products derived from virgin petroleum.Only 8%publish what proportion of their production is powered by coal.EXECUTIVE SU
90、MMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION12This stagnation in low transparency levels can also be found in other gender-related indicators.Only 3%of companies disclose how female workers,womens organisations,womens human rights advocates and gender experts are involved in all sta
91、ges of the human rights due diligence process.This lack of transparency is worrying as all affected stakeholders must be heard for an effective due diligence process.In addition,only 10%of companies annually disclose the gender pay gap at their suppliers facilities,and 7%publish data on the prevalen
92、ce of gender-related labour violations at these facilities-despite violence and sexual harassment remaining endemic in the sector.Brands urgently need to be transparent about how women-without whom the fashion industry would not exist-are heard at all levels of the industry and how a gender perspect
93、ive is ensured in all actions taken by brands.For another year,brands show a lack of transparency on racial equality indicators.The data is even lower when we search for information related to supply chain workers.Similarly to the gender indicators,little progress was made on indicators relating to
94、racial equality.This shows little to no progress on how the sector publicly communicates about this key topic which is intrinsically linked to the sustainability of the fashion sector,as more than half of the Brazilian population(56%)self-identifies as black.Of the brands reviewed,18%disclose inform
95、ation on the race and ethnic breakdown of their employees,considering data from different hierarchical levels,and only 13%publish information about career development programmes aimed at promoting opportunities for these employees.When we analyse the data disclosed about supply chains,the transparen
96、cy is even lower:12%of brands publish the breakdown by ethnicity for workers of the cutting,sewing and finishing facilities,as well as those of processing,and 2%publish this breakdown in their raw material suppliers facilities.In addition,only 3%of the companies publish their actions focusing on the
97、 promotion of racial and ethnic equality in supplier facilities.A low level of transparency is also found in the fight against cases of racism at the points of sale of the brands.Only 7%of companies publish information on the measures taken to prevent racial discrimination in their stores,both by di
98、rect and outsourced employees.The lack of transparency from brands on indicators related to racial and gender equality shows that,even though these themes are essential for social well-being,companies are not in tune with the demands of civil society activist groups that advocate for speed and effec
99、tiveness in actions for greater equity.To illustrate this further,studies show that,if government policies do not tackle this and companies do not take more effective actions,opportunities between black and white people in the job market should only balance in 2190,167 years from now,and,between men
100、 and women,only in 132 years.Only 7%of companies publish information on the measures taken to prevent racial discrimination in their stores,both by direct and outsourced employees.Only 3%of the companies publish their actions focusing on the promotion of racial and ethnic equality in the supply faci
101、lities.EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION13Brands are more transparent about how many items they produce annually,but still disclose little information about the waste they generate.This year,40%of brands disclosed their annual production volumes,representing a
102、n increase of 15 percentage points compared to the 2022 results,which was 25%.This result is also higher than that found by the Global Index,in which 12%of the 250 brands reviewed disclose their production volumes.The dissemination of these indicators allows us to gain a clearer picture of the exten
103、t of overproduction that permeates the fashion sector.We live on a planet where resources are finite,but the fashion industry continues to expand,and global clothing consumption could increase 63%by 2030 if growth continues as it is today.The more clothes are produced,the more waste is generated.In
104、recent years,several media outlets have reported on the immense amount of textile waste and clothing discarded around the world,from clothing-producing neighbourhoods in So Paulo,through the capital of Ghana,to the Atacama Desert.Despite the greater mainstream visibility on this issues,brands remain
105、 opaque about the amount of waste they generate.This year,80%of the companies do not disclose the amount of pre-production waste(offcuts,scraps,yarn,end-of-roll fabrics)produced within a year and 83%do not publish the amount of post-production waste(overstock,samples,defective garments).40%of brands
106、 disclosed their annual production volumes,representing an increase of 15 percentage points compared to the 2022 results.EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION14No brand discloses commitment to degrowth.It is impossible to talk about a more sustainable fashion indu
107、stry without addressing the issue of overproduction,which is characteristic of the modus operandi of the fashion sector.Implementing take-back schemes for clothes,rental and other new business models will not be effective if the issues of overproduction and overconsumption are not addressed at their
108、 root.Therefore,for the first time,we look to identify whether companies disclose a commitment to degrowth.The degrowth movement prioritises social and ecological well-being instead of corporate profits,overproduction and excess consumption.It requires radical redistribution,reduction in the size of
109、 the global economy,and a shift in common values towards care,solidarity and autonomy.Importantly,this should be viewed primarily as the deliberate reduction of socially and environmentally damaging practices,like overproduction,excess consumption and usage of finite resources by the Global North.Th
110、is means,among other things,a model of exit from the productivist cycle based on the decrease in the consumption of natural resources and energy to respond to the restrictions and the capacity to renew ecosystems.Of the 60 brands reviewed,none disclose a commitment to slowing their production,thereb
111、y indicating that companies are still committed to unlimited growth within a planet with limited resources.It is noteworthy that the same lack of commitment was also identified in the Global Index,in which only 1%of the 250 brands disclosed a commitment to degrowth.This comparison is necessary becau
112、se,according to Genevieve Azam,in the book“Systemic Alternatives”,a call for degrowth may not make sense in underdeveloped or developing countries until it starts in developed countries,and must include a redistribution of accumulated wealth that provides a new global horizon.Therefore,we must not f
113、orget that any discussion of degrowth must address the inequality of power between countries and between people along value chains.It is necessary that the people who make our clothes-without whom fashion brands would not even exist-can have their voices and concerns heard and healed.Circularity ini
114、tiatives cannot be used as a silver bullet on overproduction levels,but,to minimise the impacts of the fashion industry,it is necessary to establish these practices.Despite this,the Index showed a lack of progress on indicators related to circularity.It is estimated that less than 1%of the material
115、used to produce clothes is recycled into new clothes.Therefore,there is an urgent need to create and expand paths for recycling in the fashion sector,focusing mainly on those related to fabric-to-fabric recycling.Of the 60 brands reviewed,25%disclose information about how they invest in circular sol
116、utions,which go beyond reuse or downcycling-an increase of only 1 percentage point compared to last years result.The growth was also only 1 percentage point when it comes to disclosing the percentage of products designed to enable circularity-7%in 2022 and 8%in 2023.When moving towards a circular pr
117、oduction model,it is necessary for brands to prepare their suppliers for the new activities that will be required of them,such as repair,upcycling,recycling,etc.To monitor the progress of brand transparency in this regard,we have added a new indicator that seeks the disclosure of companies efforts t
118、o provide professional development for workers in their supply chain,aiming to prepare them for a just transition to a circular economy.Of the 60 brands reviewed,25%disclose information about how they invest in circular solutions,which go beyond reuse or downcycling.EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARE
119、NCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION15According to a study by Business for Social Research(BSR),while the perception of the environmental and commercial benefits of a circular production model is clear,the implications for people and society are still not well understood.The research raises the
120、need for vulnerable workers-such as women,migrants and informal workers-to be consulted and their voices to be central in a transition to a circular economy model for the fashion industry.Otherwise,there is a risk that these groups will continue to face precarious work.In addition,the same research
121、identified that companies efforts to develop new workers skills are still insufficient.In the Index,we identified the same pattern,since 93%of the brands reviewed do not publish any information about their efforts to prepare supply chain workers for a just transition to circularity.This lack of tran
122、sparency does not make it clear as to whether workers needs are being addressed.Brands remain opaque about how they commercially relate with their suppliers,despite evidence on how unfair purchasing practices perpetuate precarious working conditions in the fashion sector.Income inequality in Brazil
123、has reached its lowest level since 2012,but Brazil is still among the ten most unequal countries in the world.This level of inequality is reinforced by unequal power relations throughout society,and the fashion sector does not escape this reality.The fashion industry was built on an unequal relation
124、ship model,in which major brands hold power over their suppliers.A study by Human Rights Watch shows that poor purchasing practices can be a major cause of human rights abuses taking place in the fashion sector.Even with many brands demanding respect for workers and the work environment in their cod
125、es of conduct for suppliers,the way they commercially relate to them may actually encourage the opposite.This shows us that good purchasing practices are intrinsically linked to better working conditions.Despite this,the transparency of brands on how they commercially relate to their suppliers remai
126、ns low.For another year,this subsection was among those where brands scored the lowest.Results show that only 5%of companies publish a Responsible Purchasing Code of Conduct,and 7%disclose the average number of days in which purchase orders are paid in full to suppliers after the delivery of orders.
127、Only 7%disclose the average number of days in which purchase orders are paid in full to suppliers after the delivery of orders.Photo:Gabriel Santos-UnsplashEXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION16Most of the brands reviewed fail to disclose commitments and actions
128、to ensure the payment of living wages.In addition to unfair purchasing practices,another factor that contributes to inequality in the fashion sector is the wage gap between fashion CEOs-usually men-and the people who make our clothes-usually women.Corporate leadership must be held accountable for th
129、e impacts their businesses have on the environment and society,but this years results show that only 18%of brands disclose how much executive pay is tied to sustainability goals.Regarding the workers at the other end of the value chain,only 12%of brands disclose their approach to achieving a living
130、wage,and none disclose how many of the supply chain workers already receive a living wage.With the increasing costs of living worldwide,it is increasingly urgent that the people who make our clothes be paid an amount to live decently and be able to provide for themselves and their families.Given the
131、 fashion industrys reliance on and pollution of water and the need to address water stress in global supply chains,the continued lack of transparency from brands on this issue is alarming.A WWF study shows that water is an undervalued natural resource and that a water crisis can threaten the sustain
132、ability of ecosystems,food security and the economy.This crisis is entangled with the climate crisis and has already been felt in several places worldwide-such as in the Amazon,due to the extreme drought that has affected 62 cities.The results found in this years Index highlight that brands may not
133、have an understanding of the importance of water resources,since 80%do not disclose the methodology used to conduct water-related risk assessments and only 7%publish their suppliers wastewater test results.In addition,32%of brands disclose the water footprint of their own facilities,and this number
134、is even lower along the supply chain,with only 13%publishing water use data from processing facilities and a measly 2%concerning raw material suppliers.Looking at the data on chemical use,the results are also alarming.It is estimated that more than 8,000 types of synthetic chemicals are used in the
135、manufacturing process of our clothes and the impact of these products is felt throughout the entire fashion value chain-from plantation workers to consumers until the disposal phase.Despite this,27%of the brands reviewed disclose their manufacturing restricted substances lists(MRSL),that is,lists th
136、at inform suppliers as to which substances are prohibited throughout the manufacturing processes,from raw materials down to the end product.The lack of transparency about the chemicals used in our clothes-which impact both the environment,workers and consumers-is reinforced by the lack of disclosure
137、 of a time-bound commitment to eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals by 88%of brands.Only 12%of brands disclose their approach to achieving a living wage,and none disclose how many of the supply chain workers already receive a living wage.Only 18%of brands disclose how much executive pay is tied
138、to sustainability goals.EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION17Fashion carries within its ambiguities.On the one hand,the morally negative sense of consumerism,and on the other,the creative and empowering sense.On one hand,the sense of the end,old,of the past,of“o
139、utdated”,and,on the other hand,the sense of the modern,of beginnings,of the future.On one hand,the sense of uselessness,and on the other,the sense of necessity.On the one hand,the sense of dream and imagination,and on the other,the sense of reality and materiality.”Lilyan Berlin PhD in Social Scienc
140、es and Master in Environmental SciencesTransparency can be the antidote to greenwashing and social washingWith the increase in social and environmental crises,brands have been increasingly pressured to take a stand and act on behalf of nature and people.However,the lack of data on important issues,s
141、uch as those highlighted in this executive summary and throughout this report helps us reflect on the marketing ploys used by the fashion sector and how reliable their claims are.Communication on sustainability claims with little or no reliable data to back this information can be classified as gree
142、nwashing or social washing-when a company exaggerates their environmental and social sustainability credentials,respectively.These deceptive practices lead us to a false sense of security as they cover up the truth.Green and social washing are also detrimental to other companies since those who are
143、genuinely trying to make positive changes may be harmed by those who make misleading claims.Therefore,transparency is a tool that can help brands which are committed to effective actions to mitigate their negative impacts as well as citizens to examine what is being done.We encourage brands to be tr
144、ansparent and accurate on all topics covered by the Index,disclosing reliable information without using vague terms or explanations.We also encourage the disclosure of measurable and time-bound targets as well as the publication of annual progress towards meeting these targets.Information is power a
145、nd,therefore,we hope this Index will be helpful in driving systemic transformation in fashion.EXECUTIVE SUMMARY“FASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION18KEY RESULTSAVERAGE SCOREPOLICY&COMMITMENTSGOVERNANCETRACEABILITYKNOW,SHOW&FIXSPOTLIGHT ISSUESOverall average score across the 60 b
146、rands reviewed in 202336%26%25%17%16%22%EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION19AVERAGE SCORE IMPROVEMENT2002120222023%of brandsYearBrands reviewed since 2018Brands reviewed since 2019Brands reviewed since 2020Brands reviewed since 2021Brands reviewed si
147、nce 2022EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION2016 BRANDS HAD NO SCORETOP 10 SCORING BRANDS0%Besni0%Brooksfield0%CarmenSteffens0%Cia.Martima0%Di Santinni0%Dumond0%Forum 0%Havan0%Leader0%LojasAvenida0%LojasPompia0%Marisol0%Moleca0%Sawary0%TNG0%Colcci54%Adidas55%Meli
148、ssa55%Ipanema57%Aramis62%Havaianas65%Youcom65%Renner67%Dafiti68%Malwee70%C&AEXECUTIVE SUMMARYKEY RESULTSFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION21+42+25+24+23+18-14-5-3-2-1AVERAGE SCORE5 HIGHEST INCREASE IN%POINTS SINCE 20225 HIGHEST DECREASE IN%POINTS SINCE 2022NON-MOVERS BRANDS SIN
149、CE WERE INCLUDED IN THE INDEX(0%)BrooksfieldCarmen SteffensCia.MartimaColcciDi SantinniFrum LeaderLojas AvenidaMarisolMolecaSawaryTNGNikeTrifilDeMillusHopeLupo0202220232022202320222023EXECUTIVE SUMMARYOsklenAmaroC&ADumondDakota Ellus Malwee ZaraFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTIO
150、N22%OF BRANDS PUBLISHING SUPPLIER LISTSYearThe significant decrease in 2021 was due to the fine-tuning of the research methodology compared to previous years.Since 2021,in addition to searching for a map or list that represents a significant proportion of suppliers,we started to reject lists that di
151、d not include fiber,leather or any other type of main material used in the products but rather only those materials used in processes such as chemicals.First-tier manufacturesProcessing facilitiesRaw material suppliers*%of brandsEXECUTIVE SUMMARY201820 brands201930 brands202040 brands202150 brands20
152、2260 brands202360 brands 5533332828353343403338FASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION23SPOTLIGHT ISSUESKEY RESULTSDECENT WORKGENDER&RACIAL EQUALITYSUSTAINABLE SOURCING&MATERIALSOVERCONSUMPTION&BUSINESS MODELSDisclose data on the prevalence of modern slavery re
153、lated violations and risk factors.Disclose gender pay gap in their own operations.Describe how they define what they consider a“sustainable”material.Disclose data on the quantity of products made annually.Publish approach to living wages for supply chain workers.Disclose ethnicity pay gap data in th
154、eir own operations.Publish targets for the reduction of textiles deriving from virgin fossil fuels.Offer new business models that support clothing longevity and slow down consumption of new clothing.Publish actions related to the regularization of foreign migrant workers in the supply chain.Disclose
155、 information on career development programmes for black employees.Discloses what is doing to minimize the impact of microfibres.Disclose evidence of developing circular solutions that enable textile to textile recycling.No brands disclose the number of supply chain workers that are being paid a livi
156、ng wage.Discloses actions focusing on the promotion of gender equality in supplier facilities.12%0%22%22%20%25%32%40%0%7%13%13%10%25%EXECUTIVE SUMMARYFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION24WATER&CHEMICALSCLIMATE CHANGE&BIODIVERSITYDisclose a commitment to eliminate use of hazardou
157、s chemicals.Publish a decarbonisation target verified by science based targets initiative.Disclose annual carbon footprint in their own operations.Publish annual water footprint at raw material level.Publish time-bound,measurable commitment to zero deforestation.Disclose annual value chain/scope 3 c
158、arbon footprint.Disclose methodology for conducting water-related risk assessments.Discloses evidence of implementing regenerative farming practices.2%10%40%12%15%45%20%8%EXECUTIVE SUMMARYABOUT THIS INDEXFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION26Fashion Revolution is uniquely positio
159、ned both within and outside the fashion industry.Therefore,we seek to effect changes both in culture and in the industry itself,while mobilising citizens so that these transformations become a reality.Working within the system means engaging in a system that is deeply unsustainable,extractive,and un
160、just.Engaging with a system we disagree with is not to condone it.In fact,it is the very opposite an attempt to fundamentally dismantle the structures that uphold injustice and exploitation.We engage within an unjust fashion system because doing so is effective in driving change,even though that cha
161、nge can be frustratingly slow and incremental.We are working for industry-wide transparency and accountability to become deeply embedded across the value chain.This can only be achieved by involving the biggest players in the industry,such as the brands reviewed in this Index,precisely because they
162、have the biggest negative impacts and greatest responsibility to address the problems they perpetuate.Broadly speaking,we see industry change as work within the system,and cultural and policy change as work outside the system.Fashion Revolution simultaneously works outside of the system,to educate a
163、nd mobilise citizens as well as advocate for policy changes in government and legislation.Without transparency,all these changes are practically unreachable.OUR ROLE WITHIN AND UTSIDE THE INDUSTRYFOR A SYSTEMIC OVERHAUL OF THE GLOBAL FASHION INDUSTRYSee our MANIFESTO for a Fashion Revolution,click H
164、ERE.THE CHANGES WE WANT TO SEEAt Fashion Revolution,we campaign for a fashion industry that conserves and restores the environment,valuing people and nature over growth and profit.For that,we are working towards an industry-wide culture of transparency and accountability across the value chain;a glo
165、bal fashion industry where brands take responsibility for their social and environmental impacts.The Fashion Transparency Index is one tool in achieving this vision,and is in line with the eighth point of the Fashion Revolution Manifesto.FASHION IS TRANSPARENT AND ACCOUNTABLE.FASHION EMBRACES CLARIT
166、Y AND DOES NOT HIDE BEHIND COMPLEXITY NOR RELY UPON TRADE SECRETS TO DERIVE VALUE.ANYONE,ANYWHERE CAN FIND OUT HOW,WHERE,BY WHOM AND UNDER WHAT CONDITIONS THEIR CLOTHING IS MADE.MANIFESTO#8ABOUT THIS INDEXFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION27WORK OUTSIDE THE FASHION SYSTEMMOBILI
167、SING FOR CHANGEThrough engagement and campaigns,we have been able to mobilise volunteers from all over the country to play a more active role in promoting social and environmental responsibility as well as demanding transformations in the fashion industry.CULTURAL CHANGERaising public awareness and
168、educating people about the social and environmental challenges facing the global fashion industry.Engaging people in Brazil and around the world to act collectively through actions that promote cultural transformations.Promoting the appreciation of fashion as a cultural force.EXAMPLEPromoting the co
169、ntinuous growth of Fashion Revolution Week,which has been gaining strength every year.In 2023 alone,we recorded 616 events held in 120 cities across the country.Encouraging and supporting our network of representatives,who play a key role as activists,leading teams of volunteers in their respective
170、locations to organise events and actions for the fashion revolution throughout Brazil.Supporting and encouraging teachers and student ambassadors to promote the movement within education institutions.One result of this work is the influence on the curricular adaptation of more than 40 educational in
171、stitutions that were inspired by the principles and materials of the Fashion Revolution.EXAMPLECreating campaigns like#WhoMadeMyClothes#WhatsInAMyClothes and#TheColourOfWhoMadeMyClothes to promote a conversation about the impacts of our clothes.Developing platforms,such as the Fashion Revolution For
172、um,which collaborate and unite popular and scientific knowledge in favour of a democratic,regenerative and revolutionary fashion system.Creating online and in-person courses,such as the School of Decolonial Fashion and Fashion Revolution in Cidade Tiradentes,in order to promote fashion education tha
173、t is inclusive,critical and reaches various spaces and regions of the country.Mobilisation for Change is an ongoing process that demands campaigning and support from the movement throughout the year.At our Institute,we have a team dedicated exclusively to mobilisation in order to increasingly stimul
174、ate peoples engagement,providing them with the resources,education,and skills necessary to act effectively.Cultural change,by its very nature,is more visible.It is a work that engages and mobilises citizens to take collective action.The aim is to remove barriers between consumers and producers and i
175、nspire people to encourage the diversity of looks and voices,decolonize the system,to consume less,value quality,take better care of their clothes and use their voices to bring about change.ABOUT THIS INDEXFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION28INDUSTRY CHANGEConducting research t
176、hat shines a light on the social and environmental impacts of the global fashion industry and leverages brands competitive tendencies to drive faster change.EXAMPLEProducing the Fashion Transparency Index Brazil and other reports to incentivise transparency and promote accountability across the supp
177、ly chain.Having assertive communication through our actions in order to highlight where the industry is moving too slowly and push for faster change.Introducing and encouraging smaller brands and innovative designers through initiatives such as Creativity with Purpose.Creating tools,such as the Fash
178、ion Transparency Guide,in order to offer brands especially smaller ones the tools to better understand what transparency is,how important it is and how they can act to be more transparent.Industry change engages with the current unjust system to transform it.Through the Fashion Transparency Index,we
179、 engage directly with some of the largest fashion brands in the world those who have the biggest responsibility and furthest to go to demand faster progress.We also champion smaller,more responsible brands.WORK INSIDE THE FASHION SYSTEMTo read more about how we work,click HERE.ABOUT THIS INDEXPhoto:
180、Fashion Revolution at Cidade TiradentesFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION29TRANSPARENCYSCRUTINY ACCOUNTABILITYCHANGETHE ROLE OF TRANSPARENCY IN ACHIEVING CHANGETransparency is fundamental to achieving all the changes that Fashion Revolution is working towards-in policy,in cultu
181、re and in the industry.The public disclosure of credible,comprehensive,and comparable information about fashions supply chains enables several agents,such as investors,lawmakers,journalists,NGOs,trade unions,workers,and their representatives,to hold brands and retailers accountable.This transparency
182、 enables such actors to:Scrutinise what companies claim to do to uphold human rights and to protect the environment.Hold brands and retailers accountable for their policies and practices,which is especially important when things go wrong,like they did when Rana Plaza Building collapsed,in Bangladesh
183、 in 2013.Collaborate to cease,mitigate,prevent and remedy environmental and human rights abuses.Collaborate to share strategies and best practice on these issues.Transparency is not to be confused with sustainability,but without transparency,achieving a sustainable,accountable,and fair fashion indus
184、try will be impossible.We understand transparency as a tool for change,not the end goal.Transparency is not a silver bullet that will solve all of the complex and deeply systemic problems in the global fashion industry,but it does mean a baseline,without which we cannot meaningfully move towards rea
185、l improvements.Shining a light on the places and conditions in which our clothes are being made allows for faster and more collaborative ways to solve these problems.Fortunately,we are not alone in calling for transparency.We are one voice of many across civil society,including NGOs and trade unions
186、 representing supply chain workers,as shown in the letter published in April 2021 that was signed by 33 international NGOs.Fashion Revolution also signed this letter,calling for full supply chain transparency in the clothing sector:“The time for full supply chain transparency is now.As civil society
187、 organisations,we call upon all clothing brands and retailers to disclose all the facilities in their supply chain.We welcome the steps taken by those companies who are already disclosing part of their supply chain and encourage them to accelerate their progress towards full transparency.We ask regu
188、lators to provide for a level playing field,by setting harmonised legislation for such public disclosure and to ensure every clothing brand commits to the same level of transparency.”ABOUT THIS INDEXFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION30THE ROLE&AIMS OF THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY I
189、NDEXWe have heard from many people in our community who feel frustrated by the speed of change in the fashion industry.Given the climate emergency and persistence of human rights abuses in the industry,many people are crying out for urgent and systemic transformation now.We understand,and we share y
190、our frustrations.We have heard from many people in our community who feel frustrated by the speed of change in the fashion industry.Given the climate emergency and persistence of human rights abuses in the industry,many people are crying out for urgent and systemic transformation now.We understand,a
191、nd we share your frustrations.For the time being,while so much of the global fashion industry remains opaque and abuses go unseen,driving transparency is absolutely necessary and we believe the Fashion Transparency Index has a pivotal role to play.We hope that in the near future,campaigning for tran
192、sparency will no longer be needed as the industry moves beyond transparency to other crucial actions.The aim of the Fashion Transparency Index is not transparency in and of itself.The aim is to incentivise disclosure of information to be used by individuals,activists,experts,worker representatives,e
193、nvironmental groups,policymakers,investors and even brands themselves.Transparency is not the end point,its the entryway to capacity building.THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX WAS CREATED TO:Incentivise major brands and retailers to disclose a greater level of detailed and comparable data as well as in
194、formation year-on-year progress.Analyse trends and compare the level of transparency on human rights and environmental issues among the worlds largest and most influential fashion brands and retailers.Create a tool that helps a wide set of stakeholders to better understand what data and information
195、is being disclosed by the worlds largest brands and use the findings to take further action.Shape our ongoing efforts to raise public awareness and educate people about the social and environmental challenges facing the global fashion industry,using this research to inform societys activism.ABOUT TH
196、IS INDEXFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION31The Fashion Transparency Index has driven change in large part is by helping to normalise the concept of transparency within the industry and make public disclosure of social and environmental efforts more commonplace.For brands that
197、have been reviewed year-on-year since 2017,and in Brazil since 2018,we have seen their average scores progressively increase.When considering these 20 brands reviewed in 2018,we see that their average score has increased progressively over the years.In 2023,the overall average score of the group was
198、 34%,against the average of 17%which they obtained in 2018 representing a growth of 17 percentage points.Besides this,when we started conducting this research in Brazil back in 2018,very few brands published lists of first-tier manufacturers.They were only 25%(5 out of 20),while in 2023,this number
199、grew to 38%,with 23 out of the 60 brands reviewed.This demonstrates an important change in behaviour in the industry.Despite being a slow and gradual change,it is happening due to strong pressure for more transparency and because of the support provided by allied organisations.We have also forged pa
200、rtnerships with various organisations.These partnerships not only help push harder for increased transparency,but they also enable the Index methodology and research to be used more widely,putting the findings into tangible action.For example,our partnership with WikiRate enables the data we collect
201、,both from the Global Index and from the Brazil Index,about brands to be freely accessible,easily comparable,machine readable and,above all,actionable for different stakeholders.This data was also added to FashionChecker.org,a Clean Clothes Campaigns platform,which compares Brazilian and global bran
202、ds claims about living wages.This is valuable to investors and civil society organisations,including trade unions that represent garment workers,which make use of transparency data.The Index findings have been integrated into the Business&Human Rights Resource Centres and platform Matter,both used b
203、y investors who increasingly incorporate Fashion Transparency Index data into their ESG scoring of investee companies.Parts of the methodology and research have been integrated into the Good On You app used by ethically-minded consumers.HOW THE FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX DRIVES CHANGEABOUT THIS INDE
204、XWhen considering these 20 brands reviewed in 2018,we see that their average score has increased progressively over the years.Photo:Patchwork flag made at Centro Universitrio FAESA-Vitria/ESFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION32HOW FINANCIAL ACTORS LEVERAGE THE FTI HOW RATING FIR
205、MS LEVERAGE THE FTIFund Manager of a major investment firm managing 200 bn+in assetsAnita Nagarajan Associate Director Morningstar SustainalyticsThe Fashion Transparency Index(FTI)is testimony to the power of persistency.It has mainstreamed what was once a peripheral notion,i.e.,the disclosure of su
206、pplier lists,and in doing so,has changed industry perceptions.Previously regarded as commercially sensitive,this form of transparency is now widely accepted as good practice.The Index has also kept a laser focus on the drivers that sustain modern slavery.It has called attention to what meaningful di
207、sclosure actually looks like,for example prompt payment terms,collective bargaining coverage and identification of recruitment fees.At the same time it has called out the fluff and information overload of sustainability reporting.Whilst the road ahead can often feel uphill,we feel confident that ini
208、tiatives like the FTI will bring this vision of fashion into reality.”“As a fund manager,we are interested in identifying companies that are leading their sector in managing environmental and social risks,and those making progress in reducing their negative impacts.The FTI provides a very valuable a
209、nd detailed insight,comparing the performance of a large number of companies,with great data functionality,and an understanding of the key material risks for the sector.The fashion sector is a repeat offender when it comes to greenwashing,and data like the FTI helps strengthen transparency and accou
210、ntability for investors and other key stakeholders.”ABOUT THIS INDEX“FASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION33CASE STUDYWHY TRANSPARENCY IS NEEDED FOR THE LEATHER INDUSTRYPhoto:Feliphe Schiarolli-UnsplashFrom the birthing cattle farms to the shelves of brands and retailers,the leath
211、er supply chain is long and complex.Some of its biggest challenges are the lack of transparency and the links to deforestation,and this problem is particularly alarming in Brazil.The cattle industry is the largest driver of deforestation of the Amazon rainforest and it is estimated that,in 2021,area
212、s dedicated to pasture accounted for about 90%of deforestation in the region.The Brazilian leather industry generates approximately USD$1.1 billion in revenue and 80%of its volume is exported to around 80 countries.For example,Italy,a country known for its leather goods,is the third largest importer
213、 of partly processed skins from cattle ranches in Brazil.Evidence also suggests that most deforestation in Brazil is conducted illegally.To investigate supply chain connections between companies in various countries to deforestation in the Amazon rainforest,the Stand.earth Research Group analysed an
214、d cross-referenced nearly 500,000 rows of customs data obtained from multiple source providers.So far,the research uncovered 400 individual connections between companies(leather tanneries in Brazil,leather processors in various countries,product manufacturers,and shoe/fashion brands around the world
215、)to Amazon deforestation and these linkages connect to over 100 brands.Each individual connection is not an absolute proof that those brands use deforestation leather but it demonstrates that many are at very high risk of contributing to the destruction of the rainforest.The lack of transparency and
216、 traceability is what makes it difficult to ascertain whether the leather in a particular handbag,shoe or clothing actually came from the Amazon.A study made by the Amazon Environmental Research Institute(IPAM)with the support of the European Union shows that transparency is one of the main challeng
217、es around the traceability of the leather supply chain.Public databases,for instance,lack transparency,standardisation and integration of documents to efficiently help traceability arrangements.Also,the engagement of the productive sector in transparency forums and initiatives is still limited and t
218、here is a weak integration of information between all facilities in the leather production chain.Transparency and traceability are fundamental for curbing deforestation:without it no company can guarantee that its supply chain is deforestation free.The ability to map and publicly disclose full lists
219、 of raw material suppliers is critical for conducting environmental and human rights due diligence.Transparency measures require collective actions and it serves as a tool to hold major brands and retailers accountable to reduce their environmental,social,and quality risks as well as enhance communi
220、cation with society at large.If supply chains are transparent,theres nowhere for deforestation to hide.ABOUT THIS INDEXFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION34CASE STUDYWATER RISKS AND OPPORTUNITIES IN APPAREL AND TEXTILE CLUSTERSPhoto:Patrick Schneider-UnsplashOne of the most pres
221、sing issues in the fashion industry is the overconsumption of natural resources like water.Water is an essential resource for all life and must thus be shared,which poses complex challenges due to its scarcity,distribution,and interconnectivity with various issues like climate change and biodiversit
222、y.Understanding and addressing water risks collaboratively is crucial for the industrys long-term sustainability and resilience,as water-related impacts can have profound social,economic,and environmental consequences.1-Find more details about OSH on the Traceability section.In 2022,the World Wide F
223、und for Nature(WWF)published a report exploring the apparel and textiles industrys exposure to water risks.By utilising spatial analysis,the WWF Water Risk Filter,combined with Open Supply Hub1 data,it was identified that apparel and textile clusters are typically concentrated in smaller regions,pri
224、marily major urban areas with a history of industrialization(e.g.Po Valley,Punjab,Greater So Paulo),and associated with large river deltas(e.g.Yangtze Delta,of the Mekong,the Ganges),rather than spread across countries.Through the organisation of clusters based on their most urgent water risks,envir
225、onmental protection groups can facilitate opportunities for knowledge exchange around the most effective solutions to address these risks.For example,through supplier lists disclosed in OS Hub,WWF was able to pinpoint which brands were sourcing from the Ho Chi Minh City cluster in Vietnam.The identi
226、fied brands have a common interest in local stability and resilience and should,therefore,collaborate with each other to address water risks in the region.These brands should not only support local suppliers,but also focus broader efforts on protecting the watershed.Clubbing together efforts means t
227、hat resources can be shared,in the hopes of addressing issues more quickly and driving impact more widely.The identification of risks and opportunities here has enabled WWF to visualise a water stewardship strategy which they plan to present in the succeeding report.This work exemplifies how access
228、to accurate and up-to-date information empowers stakeholders to make informed decisions,address potential risks,and uphold ethical practices.Transparency enables new opportunities for collaboration and through it,the industry can build trust,promote accountability,and work towards a sustainable and
229、fair future for all involved.ABOUT THIS INDEXMETHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION36HOW BRANDS ARE SELECTEDBRAND PARTICIPATION The Fashion Transparency Index Brazil 2023 reviewed and ranked 60 of the largest and most influential fashion brands and
230、retailers operating in Brazil.Brands have been selected on the following basis:Annual turnoverThe customer awarenessThe diversity of market segments,including:retail,denim,casual,footwear,sportswear,beachwear,underwear,children and adults.1-We may only use the term“brands”to indicate brands and reta
231、ilers.Fashion Revolution Brasil and ABC Associados jointly selected the brands1 to be reviewed based on the same 60 brands analysed by the Fashion Transparency Index Brazil in 2022.The decision to maintain these same brands aimed to achieve better analysis and comparability of data between one year
232、and another.We understand that the sample volume is not enough to represent the Brazilian fashion market as a whole.Therefore,we tried to select brands from different segments to address the diversity of the industry.Regarding turnover,we evaluated the information regarding the financial performance
233、 of the brands and retailers,publicly disclosed by the companies themselves or in third-party publications,widely available nationally and internationally.When the information found related to a parent company that controls different brands,we selected the brand(or brands)within the group identified
234、 as the most significant in terms of turnover and brand recognition.We have purposely listed brands and not the controlling groups because the public will be most familiar with the brands.As the biggest and most powerful retailers operating in Brazil,the brands reviewed in this Index have the most s
235、ignificant negative human rights and environmental impacts and an outsized responsibility to make transformative change.These brands are large and profitable,and this means that they have both the resources and moral imperative to take meaningful action,not just on transparency,but on their impacts
236、too.This includes improving the human rights and environmental impacts at the very heart of their business models.HOW MANY BRANDS PARTICIPATED THIS YEAR?50%Completed a questionnaire12%Declined the opportunity to participate38%Did not respondMETHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX
237、BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION37WHAT DOES BRAND PARTICIPATION MEAN?Fashion Revolution contacts all brands each year at the beginning of the Fashion Transparency Index Brazil research cycle.At this stage,we inform them of the updates in the methodology and invite them to participate,asking them to re
238、ply with their interest or to decline.Participation means brands will review their pre-populated questionnaires to fill in any gaps that the Fashion Revolution research team may have missed in the initial review,as brands know their policies better than we do.Fashion Transparency Index researchers l
239、eave comments in the questionnaire template,asking brands questions like updated disclosures or clarity on what is meant by a particular disclosure.This querying acts as a capacity building exercise for the brands on how they can publish information regarding their policies and initiatives.When bran
240、ds provide feedback and/or publish further information in line with the questionnaire,Fashion Transparency Index researchers then feed back to them on why a disclosure is or is not acceptable in line with our methodology.Subsequently,the questionnaires with these additional comments are sent to the
241、brands,being considered by them one of the added values of participation in this project.This year,half of the brands(50%)took part in the review process by reviewing and returning to us their completed questionnaires.It is important to note that we include brands in the Index regardless of whether
242、they participate or not.We treat every brand the same regardless of whether they choose to participate or not.However,by engaging with our methodology,brands that participate typically receive higher scores because they can flag relevant disclosure that our researchers may have missed or they disclo
243、se additional information in the review period in order to improve their scores.When reviewing only the 30 brands that engaged in this years process,their overall average in the Index was 39%.The overall average of the 30 companies that declined or did not respond to us was 5%.Thus,we can conclude t
244、hat participation allows brands to constantly review and plan their publications,meeting the indicators of the questionnaire and good market practices,thus increasing the transparency of their business.METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHThe more transparency there is within the companies ESG environme
245、nt and the more people are producing content and analysis on top of the companies sustainability reports,just as the FTI does,the more likely it will be that companies will hear the call to do ESG in the right way.”Iara Vicente Founder and CEO Nossa Terra Firme“FASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023
246、FASHION REVOLUTION38THE 60 BRANDS SELECTED =brands that completed the questionnaireAdidas(Adidas AG)AmaroAnimale(Grupo Soma)AramisArezzo(Arezzo&Co)BesniBrooksfield(Grupo Via Veneto)CaeduCarmen Steffens(Grupo Carmen Steffens)C&ACentauro(Grupo SBF)Cia.Martima(Grupo Rosset)Colcci(AMC Txtil)Dafiti(GFG L
247、atAm)Dakota(Universo Dakota)Decathlon(Association Familiale Mulliez)DeMillusDi Santinni Dumond(Grupo Paquet)Ellus(InBrands)Farm(Grupo Soma)Frum(AMC Txtil)Gabriela(Studio Z)Havaianas(Alpargatas)HavanHering(Grupo Soma)Hope(Grupo Hope)Ipanema(Grendene)John John(Veste S.A.Estilo)KlinKyly(Grupo Kyly)Le L
248、is(Veste S.A.Estilo)LeaderLojas Avenida(Grupo Avenida)Lojas Pompia(Grupo Lins Ferro)Lupo(Grupo Lupo)Malwee(Grupo Malwee)MarisaMarisol(Marisol S.A.)Melissa(Grendene)Moleca(Calados Beira Rio S.A.)Netshoes(Magazine Luiza)Nike(Fisia/Grupo SBF)Olympikus(Vulcabras)OsklenPenalty(Grupo Cambuci)Pernambucanas
249、PuketRenner(Lojas Renner S.A.)Reserva(Arezzo&Co)Riachuelo(Grupo Guararapes)SawarySheinShoulderTNGTorra Track&FieldTrifil(Grupo Lupo)Youcom(Lojas Renner S.A.)Zara(Inditex)METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION39THE SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHThe Fashion Tr
250、ansparency Index measures what brands know and publicly share about their human rights and environmental impacts across their value chains.We award points only for information/data that has been publicly disclosed on the brand or parent companys own website(or directly linked to it,see right).We hav
251、e deliberately chosen to focus on transparency by means of public disclosure.If information and data disclosed by brands is publicly available,detailed and specific enough,it can be used by multiple stakeholders including worker representatives,environmental groups,investors,consumers and brands the
252、mselves to drive positive change on human rights and environmental issues.We believe that public disclosure drives public accountability,that is,from the moment information about a particular brand becomes public,the greater the pressure for it to be responsible and accountable to society.On the oth
253、er hand,if the information is disclosed only internally or selectively,to specific stakeholders it limits its transformative impact,capable of driving positive changes.For this reason,the Index purposely excludes everything that brands and retailers claim to be doing internally and behind the scenes
254、 across their companies and supply chains.This is also why we are looking for public disclosure not only on brands policies,procedures and governance,which are less risky to share,but also meaningful disclosure of results,progress,outcomes and impacts across the business and its value chain.It is im
255、portant to highlight that the Fashion Transparency Index is not a shopping guide.We do not endorse any brand in the Index or suggest that consumers shop at specific brands based on their ranking.In addition,the verification of the claims made by the brands is beyond the scope of the research since t
256、he project measures the public disclosure of the information and not its impact or veracity.On the other hand,we encourage stakeholders to use our research and hold brands accountable for their claims.INFORMATION/DATA MUST BE PUBLICLY AVAILABLE FROM ONE OF THE FOLLOWING PLACES:On the brand/retailer
257、website;On parent companys website(provided there is a direct web link to it from the main brand website);Investors relations or Sustainability/CSR websites(provided there is a direct web link to it from the main brand or parent company website);In annual reports or annual sustainability reports(onl
258、y counted if dated January 2021 or later)published on the brand or parent company website;In any other documents which are publicly available and can be downloaded freely from the brands or parent companys websites;Via external,third-party websites but only when there is a direct web link from the b
259、rand or parent companys website to the third-party website(e.g.Bangladesh Accord,Better Work,CDP,FLA,ETI,BSCI/Amfori websites)where specific disclosures can be found.WE DO NOT COUNT THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION SOURCES:Clothing labels and hang tags on products;In-store or at other physical locations;Sm
260、artphone apps;Social media channels;Third party websites or documents where there is no weblink from the brands own website,including press articles;Downloadable documents where the weblink cannot be found on the brands website.METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 F
261、ASHION REVOLUTION40THE RESEARCH PROCESSOCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2022 Global methodology updates:The industry research and stakeholder consultation process for the annual review of the methodology,including adjustments and new indicators,when needed,as well as the selection of new Spotlight Issues(section 5
262、of the questionnaire).FEBRUARY MARCH 2023 Brazilian methodology updates:An annual review considering the adjustments made in the global methodology and the need for specific adaptations to the Brazilian context.During this period,we also research the financial situation of the participating companie
263、s to see if they continue to have a significant turnover to be reviewed by the Index.APRIL-MAY 2023 Research and engagement with the selected brands and retailers:The research team reviews each brand and pre-populates the Index questionnaire based on the public information found.A review round is th
264、en carried out to verify the accuracy of the answers found.In parallel,two meetings are held with the brand representatives to present the initiative as well as detail the methodology and the process of analysis of the Index and promote the reflections on the importance of greater transparency for t
265、he sector.JUNE 2023 Brands receive questionnaires to complete:Brands are invited to complete the questionnaires with the data that our research team might not have found and/or with more up-to-date public information.JULY-AUGUST 2023 Final review of the questionnaires:After approximately one month,t
266、he brands return the completed questionnaires to us.Then,the research team reviews each answer to make sure that the new information presents enough evidence for what we are looking for.The Brazilian and global teams conduct several rounds of peer review quality assurance checks before finalising ea
267、ch questionnaire and the scoring.SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 2023 The data is compiled,the analysis is completed and the report is prepared:The data from each brand questionnaire is collated into one large complete dataset,which is used to analyse the final results,determine the year-on-year trends and progr
268、ess as well as extract the interesting findings to then produce this final report.Approximately one month before the report is published,the brands are notified of their final scores and overall progress,and they receive the final version of their questionnaires.LATE OF NOVEMBER 2023 FASHION TRANSPA
269、RENCY INDEX BRAZIL IS RELEASED.TIMELINEMETHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION41ABOUT THE METHODOLOGYThe Fashion Transparency Index Brazil reviews and benchmarks brands public disclosure on human rights and environmental issues across 5 key areas:1.P
270、olicies&Commitments 2.Governance 3.Supply chain traceability4.Know,Show&Fix 5.Spotlight Issues,covering the following topics:Decent work,covering:forced labour,living wages,purchasing practices,unionisation,and collective bargaining Gender and racial equality Sustainable sourcing and materials Overc
271、onsumption,waste and circularity Water and chemicals Climate change and biodiversityWe have also strived to align the methodology,so far as possible,with existing international standards and frameworks such as Global Reporting Initiative(GRI),Open Data Standard,UN Guiding Principles,Sustainable Deve
272、lopment Goals(SDGs),OECD Due Diligence Guidelines and the relevant International Labour Organization(ILO)conventions,as well as other industry initiatives including Act on Living Wages,Corporate Human Rights Benchmark,Know The Chain,Transparency Pledge,and several others.We also collaborated to shar
273、e our research with other benchmarks through our partnership with the open research platform,Wikirate.METHODOLOGY ADVISORY COMMITTEEThe methodology was designed in 2017 through a four-month consultative process.We had contributions from a variety of industry experts and stakeholders from academia,th
274、e trade union movement,civil society organisations,socially responsible investment,business consulting and journalism.This year we have made updates in consultation with our global advisory committee,created to keep the methodology always up to date and which includes more than 20 experts and organi
275、sations,such as those listed next.METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION42Dr.Mark Anner Associate Professor&Director Center for Global Workers Rights Penn State University Neil Brown Head of Equities GIB Asset ManagementGary Cook Global Climate Camp
276、aigns Director Stand.earthSubindu Garkhel Cotton and Textiles Lead The Fairtrade FoundationFiona Gooch Senior Private Sector Policy Advisor Traidcraft ExchangeChristina Hajagos-Clausen Textile and Garment Industry Director IndustriALL Global UnionKristian Hardiman Head of Ratings Good On YouDavid Ha
277、chfeld Clean Clothes Campaign SpecialistAruna Kashyap Associate Director of Corporate Responsibility Human Rights WatchKate Larsen Business&Human Rights ConsultantHester Le Roux Senior Economic Advisor,Policy&Advocacy CARE InternationalEmily MacIntosh Policy Officer for Textiles European Environment
278、al BureauMaya Rommwat Fashion Climate Campaigner Stand.earthFrancois Souchet Make Fashion Circular Lead Ellen MacArthur FoundationJoe Sutcliffe Senior Advisor,Dignified Work CARE International Urksa Trunk Campaign advisor Changing MarketsNusa Urbanic Campaigns Director Changing MarketsGeorge Harding
279、-Rolls Campaigns Manager Changing MarketsBen Vanpeperstraete Supply Chain ConsultantFrank Michel Executive Director ZDHC Klaas Nuttbohm Implementation Director ZDHCOlivia Windham Stewart Business&Human Rights Specialist Katie Shaw Chief Programming Officer Open Apparel RegistryPauline Op De Beeck He
280、ad of Sales,Europe Apparel Sector LeadLaura Balmond Make Fashion Circular Lead Ellen Macarthur FoundationAnna Bryhe Director of Advocacy Labour Behind the LabelChloe Rollscane Canopy Global ResearcherHolly Syrett Global Fashion AgendaAlessandra Mezzadri Senior Lecturer in Development Studies SOAS Un
281、iversity of LondonRohan Preece Business&Human Rights Manager Traidcraft IndiaKratika Choubey Business&Human Rights Associate Manager Traidcraft IndiaHidden Homeworkers Project Louise Nicholls Managing Director Suseco LimitedKaarina Kolle Clean Energy Demand Programme Manager European Climate Foundat
282、ionJoseph Zacune ConsultantMETHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION43ABOUT ANNUAL REVIEW OF THE INDEXADAPTING THE METHODOLOGY TO THE BRAZILIAN CONTEXTThis year,14 new indicators were added compared to last year.Just as we do every year,we have updated
283、 the wording in some indicators for clarity and to align with best practices.We have also added and improved search protocols that guided our researchers during the search for information disclosed by brands.If you download our questionnaire template,those changes are in red text.The weighting of th
284、e scores is designed to incentivise detailed,granular public disclosure.The intention is to put the greatest emphasis on results,outcomes,impacts and the most actionable data that can be used by external stakeholders to hold brands to account.To implement the first edition of the Fashion Transparenc
285、y Index Brazil in 2018,Fashion Revolution Brasil established a technical partnership with FGVces (Centre for Sustainability Studies at Getlio Vargas),which adapted the methodology to the Brazilian context and conducted the research.Following this,after researching and consulting different experts fr
286、om the Brazilian industry,we defined that it would be important to bring to the questionnaire more indicators about racial equality and the immigrant workers hired in the fashion production chain.In addition to these new specific indicators,there were a few other adjustments incorporated into the qu
287、estionnaire for the preparation of its Brazilian version.This allowed the review procedures to be strictly followed with no prejudice to the comparison of results with the global methodology.Since 2019,we carried on reviewing the questionnaires content and structure with the same technical partner t
288、eam,which now operates by ABC Associados consultancy.Similarly to 2018,this team has also supported us in the stages of identifying and reviewing the brands presented in this Index.Thus,it is possible that there are differences in the final scores of the brands included in both Global Index and Braz
289、il Index.These differences may occur due to the period of the year in which the survey was conducted for each report,the variation of indicators according to the local context,the updates of the published information as well as the fact that global brands are controlled by different groups in Brazil
290、 and worldwide.In addition,in the Brazilian Index,we do not consider disclosures about actions focused on other countries that are not related to the brands operation in Brazil.For example,if a brand has a diversity and inclusion practice only for European office employees,the score will not be awar
291、ded.Each review used the latest available information at the time the survey was performed.FOR MORE DETAILS,VISIT THIS LINK TO VIEW THE 2023 BRAND QUESTIONNAIRE TEMPLATE SENT TO COMPANIES IN BRAZIL.THE 2023 INDEX METHODOLOGY:263 individual indicators60 brands15.780 data points METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF T
292、HE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION44LIMITATIONS OF THE RESEARCHHOW WE CALCULATE THE FINDINGSThe survey captures information available only within the time frame of the process steps,and brands and retailers may withdraw or disclose new information at any time.Changes
293、 to the methodology in 2023 may affect year-on-year comparability of the results.Please take this into consideration when making annual comparisons.On document-based research,human error is a possibility.Although our team is committed to conducting the review in the most complete,accurate,and impart
294、ial manner possible,at different stages,there is the possibility of errors.Verification of brands claims are beyond the scope of this research.The Fashion Transparency Index does not provide a detailed review of content,quality,or precision of brands policies,procedures,performance,and progress in a
295、ny particular area.Therefore,we encourage other stakeholders and experts to access and evaluate the information found.We are confident that the methodology is comprehensive and robust when it comes to the public disclosure of information by major brands,although we acknowledge that it can always be
296、improved.Feedback and suggestions are always welcome and,for that,you can email us at isabellafashionrevolution.org.All scores have been calculated to two decimal places(in the complete data set)and then rounded to the nearest whole percentage point for this report.The questionnaire awards a total o
297、f 250 points.To calculate the total score for each brand,we add the score awarded to the brand for the 5 different sections.Each section has a different weight as some sections are worth more points than others:Section 1 is worth 33 points Section 2 is worth 10 points Section 3 is worth 73 points Se
298、ction 4 is worth 47 points Section 5 is worth 87 pointsThe overall average score across all 60 brands is calculated by taking the average of all brands individual final scores.For the most part,year-on-year differences in scores are described as the change in percentage points,which means the actual
299、 amount of change,rather than the percent,which means the rate of change(unless explicitly stated otherwise).For instance,if a brand scored 30%in one year and 45%in the next,we are usually reporting that the brand increased by 15 percentage points(45-30=15)rather than saying the brand increased by 5
300、0%its performance(45/30=1.5).Where a score may have been rounded to the nearest percentage point in previous editions,we are calculating the year-on-year difference according to the rounded figures rather than to the exact decimal points.For example,where the average score in a particular section is
301、 17.74%,we have rounded this up to 18%.If in a previous years report,the average score in that section was 12.41%,we rounded it down to 12%in the report.Therefore,the year-on-year difference is technically 5.33 percentage points(17.74-12.41),in this case,we chose to consider the nearest rounded figu
302、res.That is,it will appear as 6 percentage points(18-12).METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION45WEIGHTING OF THE SCORES13,2%Policy&Commitments This section explores brands human rights and environmental policies for both their own employees and wor
303、kers in their supply chain,how these policies are implemented,if brands have relevant goals and targets in place and if brands are reporting annual progress against these targets.Since 2021,available points in this section have been halved to place more emphasis on outcomes and impacts.This section
304、had no change in indicators this year,only the implementation of some more in-depth search protocols.4%Governance Here we look at who on the executive board has responsibility for human rights and environmental issues,how this is implemented,whether the relevant department can be easily contacted by
305、 the public,and how human rights and environmental improvements are linked to employee,CEO and executive level,and supplier performance.We also looked to see whether there is worker representation on the companys board of directors and the amount spent on corporate responsibility and sustainability.
306、29,2%Traceability In this section we expect brands to publish supplier lists at three levels:manufacturing,processing facilities and mills,and raw materials.We also look for extra details in these lists such as supplier addresses,number of workers on site,gender and race breakdown,number of migrant
307、workers,union representation,and when the list was last updated.We also checked whether or not brands are active contributors to the Open Supply Hub to enable collaboration and efficient access of data for impacted stakeholders.For the first time this year,we included indicators on energy and water
308、consumption at Tier 1 and processing level.18,8%Know,Show&Fix In Know,Show&Fix we review what brands disclose about their human rights and environmental due diligence processes.We also research how they assess suppliers against their policies,what are the results of these audits and assessments,what
309、 brands do when problems are found,how workers can file complaints and how these are addressed.34,8%Spotlight IssuesIn this final section,we look at what brands are doing to deal with urgent issues such as combating forced and bonded labour,promoting gender and race equality,living wages,purchasing
310、practices,unionisation,overproduction,waste and circularity,sustainable materials,water and chemical usage,deforestation and climate change.Since 2021,we have increased the weighting significantly compared to previous editions(up from 19.6%in 2020)in an effort to push harder for disclosure of inform
311、ation on the most urgent and difficult problems faced in the industry.METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION46A GUIDE TO THE FINAL SCORINGWe have intentionally grouped brands in percentage ranges so readers can focus on the emerging patterns and tre
312、nds for disclosing information by the companies rather than focusing on their individual scores.True transparency and a score of 100%would facilitate the investigative work of civil society organisations and experts,e.g.trade unions representing garment workers,thereby allowing them to focus on miti
313、gating problems and promoting improvements rather than directing efforts in the search for data to support their work.A commitment to transparency is a commitment to a continuous process of improvement.It is not a mere quiz-filling exercise.Human rights and environmental risks in fashion are constan
314、tly changing and,therefore,in order to maintain transparency,disclosure needs to be ongoing and up to date.Brands scoring between 0-5%are disclosing nothing at all or a very limited number of policies,which are often related to the brands hiring practices,local community engagement activities,or wat
315、er or energy reduction initiatives.Brands scoring between 6-10%are likely to be publishing some policies for both their employees and suppliers.Those closer to 10%are more likely to be publishing a basic supplier code of conduct,some information about their procedures and limited information about t
316、heir practices and grievance channels.Brands scoring between 11-20%are likely to be publishing policies for both employees and suppliers and information about their practices.These brands often disclose some information about their governance and supplier assessment and remediation processes.In the
317、Spotlight Issues section,these companies tend to disclose specific data about their carbon footprint and use of sustainable materials.Brands scoring between 21-30%are likely to be publishing much more detailed information about their policies,procedures,governance,social and environmental goals and
318、supplier assessment and remediation processes.These brands may be publishing their list of suppliers,mainly production manufacturers,information about governance and grievance channels related to human rights and environmental issues.These brands are usually not disclosing extensive information abou
319、t Spotlight Issues.Brands scoring between 31-40%are typically disclosing information about their governance practices,as well as more detailed data about their policies,procedures,social and environmental goals,supplier assessment,and remediation processes.These brands are also more likely to disclo
320、se their due diligence processes and address some of the Spotlight Topics,such as combating modern slavery,using sustainable materials,and data on decarbonisation,carbon footprint,and energy use.Brands scoring 41-50%are likely to be publishing more detailed supplier lists as well as some information
321、 on supplier assessment findings.In addition,they are usually disclosing their policies,procedures,social and environmental goals,governance,due diligence and remediation processes.These brands are also likely to be addressing some of the Spotlight Issues,such as combating modern slavery,information
322、 on gender and racial equality,the use of sustainable materials,solutions to deal with textile waste,and data on decarbonisation and carbon footprint.0 5%6 10%11%20%21%30%31%40%41%50%METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL 2023 FASHION REVOLUTION47Brands scoring 51-60%are d
323、isclosing all the information already described in the other ranges as well as more detailed supplier lists and more complete data about their governance practices.These brands are likely to be publishing findings of their supplier assessments,describing their due diligence processes,and addressing
324、many of the Spotlight Issues,such as combating modern slavery,gender and racial equality,unionisation and collective bargaining,promoting gender and racial equality,sustainable materials,waste and circularity,water and chemicals,carbon footprint,and renewable energy.Brands scoring 61-70%are disclosi
325、ng all of the information already described in the other ranges and will be publishing detailed supplier lists,which include manufacturers,processing facilities and some suppliers of raw materials.These brands will also be addressing relatively more information on much of the topics related to the S
326、potlight Issues section.No brands scored above 70%,but if any had done so,they would be disclosing all the information already described before as well as detailed information on their due diligence processes,and complete lists for at least 95%of all suppliers,from tier 1 to manufacturing and proces
327、sing facilities.In addition,they disclose extensive data on the themes of Spotlight Issues,but there is still a lack of significant disclosures on results and impacts.In 2022,no brand were in this score range either.If any brand had scored between 81%and 90%,they would be disclosing all the informat
328、ion already described above,as well as more comprehensive findings from their supplier assessments,the remediation results for specific facilities,and complete lists for at least 95%of all suppliers,from manufacturing right down to raw materials.It would also share more comprehensive data on the use
329、 of sustainable materials,issues related to gender and race in their supply chains,their approach to purchasing practices,as well as their approach to,and progress towards,paying living wages for supply chain workers.In addition,it would disclose the carbon emissions,renewable energy use and water f
330、ootprint from its own operations and in its supply chains-down to the raw material level.A score of 100%would mean that a brand is disclosing detailed information on all human rights,corporate governance and environmental indicators reviewed in the Index.However,this would not mean the end of the jo
331、urney,but rather an excellent starting point towards public accountability and the mitigation of its negative impacts,driving changes for the sector.51%60%61%70%71%80%81%90%91%100%METHODOLOGY&SCOPE OF THE RESEARCHTo access the complete dataset,CLICK HERE.FULL RESULTSFASHION TRANPARENCY INDEX BRASIL
332、2023 FASHION REVOLUTION49Shein 16Osklen 15Track&Field 15Amaro 13Animale 29Marisa 29Farm 28Lupo 27DeMillus 26Hope 26Trifil 25Le Lis Blanc 23John John 22Decathlon 31Pernambucanas 50Hering 49Zara 47Arezzo 42Nike 42Reserva 41Aramis 57Ipanema 55Melissa 55Adidas 54Riachuelo 52C&A 70Malwee 68Dafiti 67Renne
333、r 65Youcom 65Havaianas 62*The brands are ranked in numerical order out of a score of 250,but they are shown here as a rounded-up percentage.If any brands have the same score,they are listed in alphabetical order.0 5%6 10%11%20%21%30%31%40%41%50%51%60%61%70%71%80%81%90%91%100%No.of brandsScore rangeTHE FINAL SCORES56 brands scored 0%The average score was 55 out of 250 points(22%)80%of br